Vintage Art Deco watches

Last Updated on November 16, 2024 by Jason

In the modern world, there seems to be an abundance of devices that can tell the time, from smartphones and tablets to microwaves and even my washing machine. There seems to be no need today to bother wearing a watch, unless of course, it is a statement of personal style. However, it wasn’t that long ago, that everyone wore a watch on their wrist, if for nothing more than to tell the time. Wearing vintage watches now reminds us of days gone by, when wristwatches actually served a purpose. However, the most appealing part of wearing vintage watches today is their elegant designs, particularly those from the Art Deco period. The movement influenced watch designs in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. These designs ranged from elegant cocktail watches for women to rectangular dress watches for men.  Vintage Art Deco watches were, and still are, the epitome of elegance and style.

Early 20th century watches

Before the First World War, pocket watches were typically timepieces for the upper classes. Although, wristwatches or “wristlets” as they were known at the time were available, they were considered feminine and rarely worn by men. However, during the war, the pocket watch proved to be impractical and was superseded by the trench watch. The utility of the trench watch and its association with the brave soldiers on the front lines forever changed the public’s perception of the wristwatch. By the end of the war, wristwatches were accessible to the working classes. The ‘Roaring 20s’, ushered in a new era of peace and prosperity. Along with it, came the Art Deco movement which was to have a significant impact on the style of the wristwatch. As the Art Deco movement became associated with wealth, sophistication and elegance, watchmakers began creating timepieces that matched the style.

Art Deco period

The Art Deco period began in the early 1920s and continued through the 1930s, with its peak around the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, which officially showcased the style. The Great Depression (1929–1939) had a significant impact on the popularity of the Art Deco movement, the financial hardship led to reduced spending on luxury goods, including watches. As a result, people sought more practical and austere designs, which meant the extravagant and ornate Art Deco style fell out of favour. The Art Deco movement gradually waned during the Second World War, but left a lasting influence on watch design.

Characteristics of vintage Art Deco watches

Art Deco is known for its use of geometric forms, including zigzags, chevrons, sunbursts, and stepped patterns. These designs place an emphasis on symmetry and order, reflecting the period’s fascination with modernity and machine-age aesthetics. Art Deco watches often feature geometric case shapes, including rectangles, squares, and tonneau (barrel) shapes moving away from the traditional round cases. These designs align with the Art Deco emphasis on symmetry and structure.

Streamlined shapes and colours

Sleek, streamlined shapes and forms were prominent in Art Deco designs This reflected the era’s fascination with speed, technology, and the future. Aerodynamic and stylised motifs inspired by machinery, cars, and aircraft are common. The streamlined aesthetics are evident in the clean lines and elegant proportions of the watches. Even though they are luxurious, the designs are often understated and focused on refined elegance.

The Art Deco style employed vibrant colours and strong contrasts. Bold hues like gold, silver, black, and red were typical, and often used to create striking visual effects. The dials of Art Deco watches were usually elaborate, with distinctive numerals (frequently Art Deco-style numerals) and geometric patterns. Sunburst and guilloché designs on the dials were common. Watches featured decorative elements such as engraved patterns, enamel work, and intricate bracelets. These details reflect the broader Art Deco interest in craftsmanship and artistic embellishment.

Opulence and luxury

Art Deco embraced opulence and luxury, using materials such as lacquer, ebony, ivory, and exotic woods. Metals like chrome, steel, and aluminium were also prominent. This reflected the industrial influences of the time. Watches of the period used high-quality materials such as gold, platinum, and stainless steel. The use of diamonds, sapphires, and other gemstones for hour markers or decoration is typical. This highlighted the affluence of the era.

While aesthetically pleasing, vintage Art Deco watches also prioritise functionality and precision. This embodies the era’s belief in the fusion of beauty and practicality. The style is glamorous, sophisticated and elegant. Ornamentation is lavish but controlled, ensuring a refined and graceful appearance.

Collecting vintage Art Deco watches

I am going to make an assumption that if you are buying a vintage Art Deco watch it is for personal use. That is, you will wear it on occasion and not just store it in a safe as a future investment. However, if you buy well, wear the watch and take care of it, there is no reason why it couldn’t be considered as investment material in the future. Excluding the investment option, there are probably three things a collector should be looking at, appearance, originality and reliability. Let’s take a look at these individually.

Appearance

Typically, if you are buying a vintage Art Deco watch, it will be what is considered, a dress watch. That is, it would be worn on more formal occasions, rather than a friend’s BBQ. Therefore, it needs to look the part. A certain amount of wear and tear is expected on a watch that dates back to the 1920s or 1930s. This is what is known as patina, which differs very much from damage.

Patina is a thin layer that forms on the surface of materials, such as metal, which is acquired due to age and exposure to day-to-day activities. Patina is discolouration to the dial and numerals, wear and tear to the metal plating and light scratches. Anything more would be considered damage and should be avoided. Paina adds character and is a desirable feature for many collectors. A redial or intense polishing removes this effect and sacrifices originality, this tends to detract from the resale value.

Originality

The Holy Grail for a lot of collectors would be to find a NOS (New Old Stock) vintage watch, unworn and in pristine condition. However, these are rare and for the most part, collectors need to consider pre-owned stock. The originality comes into consideration when you look at the watch in its entirety and determine how much of it is truly authentic. Suppose it is a watch that has had a long life, it is highly unlikely that all of the movement is still original. For example, the mainspring could have broken a number of times in the 80 or 90 years. Ideally, broken components would have been replaced by the manufacturer’s replacement parts. This could really only be determined by an experienced collector or watchmaker.

For most collectors, originality will come down to the exterior of the watch. Is the dial original and not refinished? What about the hands or the crystal? Is the crown correctly signed? Note, not crowns were signed. The strap, if leather, is highly unlikely to be original. But what about the buckle? These are mostly listed in order of my preferences. It’s very rare in my experience to find an original buckle and replacement crowns are very common. I think most collectors can live without an original crown or buckle.

Reliability

If you are going to use your vintage Art Deco watch as a timepiece, it needs to reliably tell the time. For vintage watches, +/- 2 to 3 minutes a day is acceptable, although accuracy to within 30 seconds is certainly possible on a well-maintained movement. Factoring in regular servicing is something that needs to be considered. Even if the movement is not in constant use, the lubricants will still dry out over time.

How often will you wear the watch? If it is daily, be aware that the process of manually winding a watch each day puts wear and tear on the crown and the winding stem. Generally, I consider manually-wound watches to be something I wear occasionally for special occasions or for a few days at a time. Automatic watches can be worn more frequently as they are self-winding. Also, be aware that most 1920s or 1930s movements will predate shock protection and shouldn’t be worn when physically active.

Summary

The Art Deco period, dating from the early 1920s to the late 1930s, is defined by its geometric shapes, bold colours, luxurious materials, streamlined designs, exotic influences, and an overall sense of glamour and sophistication. These characteristics were transferred into the design of Art Deco watches, which merged these aesthetics into an elegant timepiece.

The Great Depression led to a decline in Art Deco’s popularity due to economic realities and changing aesthetic preferences. Despite this, Art Deco remains an enduring and influential style in design history. Vintage Art Deco watches are still readily available and I, for one, am still keen to strap one on my wrist.

Related content

Art Deco at Wikipedia.