Vintage watch condition ratings

Last Updated on September 15, 2024 by Jason

If you are starting to visit the multitude of online shops that specialise in vintage watches, you are going to come across the term “condition”. This is where the retailers describe the overall condition of a vintage watch and this does influence the price. There is no standard listing and many retailers provide their own custom rating or grading system. However, the list below should give most new buyers a good indication of what they are actually buying. Personally, I have never owned NOS, but I generally target those timepieces that fall between ”Very Good” and “Mint”. I am looking for several things in a vintage watch – presentability, originality and reliability. You will find these three characteristics in anything graded “Very Good” and above. In the sections below, we will explore the various vintage watch condition ratings.

NOS – New Old Stock

NOS indicates a pre-owned watch that has never been worn. It is in pristine condition and is accompanied by the original retailer’s box, tags and paperwork. No alterations have been made to the watch. All of the components, including crystal, crown, strap and buckle, are original. The paperwork, warranties, manuals etc should be included to establish the watch’s authenticity. Warranties or guarantees may be blank, as these are often not signed or stamped until the point of sale. Vintage watches in NOS condition are often considered the Holy Grail for collectors. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 10.

Also known as LNIB – Like New In Box or BNIB – Brand New In Box.

Mint

A vintage watch in “Mint” condition, is one that has been worn, but is in near-perfect condition. Any signs of wear are normally only visible under magnification. A mint condition watch, may or may not have, the original box and paperwork. If they are included, they will have been handled. The paperwork, if included will probably be stamped with the proof of sale. Mint condition can also refer to watches that have been restored to a new condition. The better the quality of the work, the less likely it is noticeable. Generally, a watch in genuine mint condition will be worth more than one that has been restored. The watch will be completely original, very presentable and will keep excellent time. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 9.5.

Near Mint

A vintage watch in “Near Mint” condition will show very subtle signs of wear. There are likely to be very faint scratches on the crystal, the case, the bezel and the bracelet. These will be visible to the naked eye, but will not be deep enough to expose the underlying metal on a plated case. Leather straps, the least likely component to be original, will show creases, folds and light scratching. Apart from this minor wear, a Near Mint watch will be otherwise original in every way. The watch will work perfectly and keep very good time. No restoration work is required for this to be a presentable, original and reliable vintage watch. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 9.

Excellent

If a vintage watch is in Excellent condition, it will show noticeable signs of wear to the naked eye. Scratches are light, but more numerous than a watch in “Near Mint” condition. The watch is still very presentable, but may benefit from a light polish. If the watch has been restored in any way, original replacement parts will have been used. If the strap is leather, it will be clearly used, but show no stains. When the watch has a bracelet, it will show wear in the form of scratches, but no dings or dents. The watch will be working perfectly and needs no repair or service. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are an 8.

Very good

A watch in “Very Good” condition shows what might be considered as normal wear and tear from a careful owner who wore the watch on a daily basis. Light scratches are clearly evident, but there is no damage in the form of nicks or dents. The watch may require a light polish to bring it up to “dress” standard. Superficially, watches in this condition are very similar to those in an “Excellent” condition. However, a watch in “Very Good” condition is likely to include replacement parts that are not from the original manufacturer or perhaps a redial. The watch will run well, keeping good time, although it may be in need of a service. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 7.

Good

There is nothing fundamentally wrong with a vintage watch in “Good” condition, although it has quite obviously been heavily used. In terms of presentation, the watch is likely to show dents, nicks and deep scratches on the case, bezel and crystal. The dial is likely to show marking that is considered to be damage rather than patina. Both the dial and case may require restoration to make the watch presentable. The watch will be running and wearable, but may gain or lose a few minutes over 24 hours. However, a service is needed to ensure reliable timekeeping. The originality of the watch may be compromised due to the use of non-original replacement parts. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 6.

Fair

A vintage watch that is in “Fair” condition is cosmetically and mechanically challenged. The watch requires a full service and a restoration to the dial and case for it to become usable. It is likely to be running erratically and therefore not a reliable timekeeper. The watch is intact, but many of its major components are non-original. This is not the type of watch you are likely to wear to a social event. Ideally, a watch in “Fair” condition is best suited for a watch enthusiast looking for their first restoration project. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 5.

Poor

A watch that is in “Poor” condition is in a sorry state. It shows damage externally and movement is not working. It is missing parts and requires a full restoration and service to get it running and wearable. The restoration project would be a challenge for experienced watchmakers. It is not a complete write-off, but requires a lot of work and expense to become useable. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 4.

Scrap/Parts

As the title suggests, these are a collection of parts that once belonged to a living breathing watch. Sadly, no longer. Now they are simply rusted or corroded components that are probably not even worth restoring. On a scale of 1 to 10, these watches are a 1 – 3.

What do these grades mean?

These are graded based on the opinions of Set Back In Time, they do not represent industry standards. Similar rating systems will be on other reseller platforms. As stated in the introduction, These are graded based on the opinions of Set Back In Time, they do not represent industry standards. We are looking for vintage watches that are presentable, original and reliable from the time of purchase. The watches do not need any form of restoration or serving to meet these requirements. However, exceptions may be made for exceptional examples. Watches that meet these requirements will generally fall into the gradings of “Very Good” and above.

Additional terms

In addition to vintage watch condition ratings, there are other terms that are commonly found in the descriptions of watches for sale:

Reference: The specific model reference code of the watch as provided by the manufacturer.

Movement/Calibre: The movement number of the timekeeping mechanism.

Movement type: Manual wind or automatic if mechanical, otherwise Quartz.

Jewels: The number of jewelled bearings within the movement. Generally, the higher the number of jewels, the better the quality.

Crystal: The material used for the lens covering the dial. Usually, mineral, glass or acrylic.

Power reserve: For mechanical watches, the number of hours the watch will run when fully wound.

Date: The date of manufacture.

Case size: The diameter of the watch case in millimetres.

Case thickness: The thickness or height of the watch case in millimetres.

Lug to Lug: The distance between the lug tips, which secure the strap or bracelet.

Lug width: The inside width of the lug, designating the strap width.

Case material: The material the watch case is made of, typically stainless steel, but can be precious metal.

Warranty: This is the warranty supplied by the seller of the vintage watch, which usually has limitations on water damage.

What does “box and papers” mean?

The “box” refers to the original box the watch was sold in by the retailer. Typically, cardboard, but can be would, leather or metal.

The “papers” refer to the original manufacturer’s paperwork, usually a warranty card, receipt and user manual. The paperwork will show the reference number of the watch model, the unique serial number and often the retail location where the watch was originally sold.

Leather straps

As mentioned above leather straps are the least likely component to be original on a vintage watch. A good quality leather strap will only last at most two years if the watch is used daily. Therefore, a watch that is 25 years old has probably gone through a number of leather straps in its lifetime. Even, if the watch has been used sparingly, the leather strap is likely to have deteriorated after 25+ years and will probably need some TLC before use. The other thing to remember about leather straps is that they are replaced regularly and without little thought. That is why original buckles are so rare. People don’t think about them when they have their strap replaced. If you are lucky enough to have an original buckle, always remember to retain it and swap it when the leather strap is replaced.