Last Updated on November 16, 2024 by Jason
Recently, I have found the appeal of vintage Art Deco style watches to be distracting, to the point where owning one has become the focus of my watch collecting hobby. Art Deco emerged in the 1920s and 1930s, reflecting the cultural and social outlook of the era. Art Deco design is characterised by its elegant geometric shapes, bold lines and superior craftsmanship, which offers a distinct and visually striking appearance. Despite being from a bygone era, Art Deco designs have a timeless quality. Their classic elegance and sophisticated style complement both vintage and modern fashion. In this post, we examine a vintage Art Deco Omega T17 Tank from Kibble Watches. The elusive Omega T17 Tank has been on my wish list for a while and, as usual, this particular watch was sold before I could get my hands on it.
Omega
In 1848, Louis Brandt (1825-1879) founded “La Generale Watch Co.” in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Initially, Brandt assembled key-wound pocket watches using parts from local craftsmen. After Brandt’s death in 1879, his sons, Louis-Paul and César, took over the family business. By 1892, they had produced their first minute-repeater, and in 1894, they developed an in-house movement known as the 19-ligne calibre. This movement was named “Omega” and was so successful that the company adopted the Omega name in 1903. During World War One Omega watches became the official timekeepers for the Royal Flying Corps.
In 1930, Omega merged with Tissot to form the Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère (SSIH). In World War Two, Omega, was one of the brands selected by the British Ministry of Defence to supply the military watches later known as the “Dirty Dozen”. During Omega’s centenary in 1948, the iconic Seamaster was introduced. The Constellation followed in 1952, and in 1957, the legendary Omega Speedmaster was launched. Renowned for its durability and precision, the Speedmaster became famous as the “Moonwatch.” Omega has continued to innovate and remains a respected watchmaker well into the 21st century. In 2022, as members of the Swatch Group, Omega and Swatch collaborated to produce the “MoonSwatch”.
Omega T17 Tank
The Omega T17 Tank represents a defining era in Swiss watchmaking history. Its Art Deco design, rectangular case, and bold numerals capture the spirit of the 1930s, making it a tangible link to that era. The name of the T17 movement has a rather simple meaning. The “T” is in reference to the movement’s tonneau (barrel) shape and the “17” to its width at its centre in millimetres.
The T17 manual-wind movement, with its impressive 60-hour power reserve, showcases Omega’s technical prowess. Vintage watch collectors appreciate the level of craftsmanship that went into creating these timepieces. The T17 calibre was designed by Charles Perregaux and was introduced in 1934. The name is derived from its tonneau shape and 17mm width. The T17 calibre is 25mm in length with 15-jewel (17-jewel versions exist) beating at 18,000 beats per hour. The movement was successful in tank-style watches with Omega producing more than 140,000 of them up until 1943. The movement in this watch has been serviced and is running well and includes a 6-month non-waterproof warranty.
The Tank’s refined aesthetics are all about elegance, with blued steel hands, Arabic numerals, and a stainless steel case. It’s a timeless design that appeals to those who appreciate understated luxury. Vintage Omega T17 Tanks are relatively rare now, adding to their collectability. As vintage watches gain popularity, their value appreciates, particularly those that are rare and of recognised quality. The T17 is such a watch and, as a result, discerning collectors recognise the investment potential.
Case
The front of the case is stainless steel and is in very good condition. There are no signs of corrosion on the case, just some light scratching which is consistent with normal use from a watch of this age. Overall, it is a very neat and well-proportioned rectangular “tonneau” case. It measures 24mm wide by 33mm in length. It wears well with a lug-to-lug measurement of 36mm and slight curvature, meaning that it hugs the wrist comfortably. This is quite small by modern standards. However, it is still suitable for wear on a gentleman’s wrist.
The large crown is easy to grasp for winding and for pulling out to set the time. It appears to be the original crown and is made from stainless steel. Additionally, it has a beautiful coin-edge finish. The crown is unsigned, but that is to be expected for the period. Omega started signing the crown around the time of their centenary (1948).
The case back is stainless steel and in very good condition with only light surface scratches. It has a plain, unbrushed finish. Additionally, the inside of the case has perlage finishing and is signed “Acier Staybrite, Omega, Fab. Suisse 9908704”.
The watch comes paired with a “Lizard Grain” leather strap which has some ageing, but suits a vintage watch. The most important feature of the 16mm brown leather strap is the original 1939 Omega Fab Suisse Steel buckle. Typically, buckles get misplaced over the years as straps get replaced. As a result, original buckles are a really rare find.
Dial
The dial is in good condition, it is unrestored, which is a bonus for those collectors who value originality. There is light aged-related discolouration across the dial, with some material missing on the far-right edge. However, most of this would be considered patina and the dial is completely legible in terms of reading the time. I would describe this as “character”.
It is signed Omega with the Omega logo below 12 O’clock. There is a clear and simple railroad track around the extremity of the dial. The 5-minute marks are bolder. The hour markers are clear, Arabic numerals that are plotted in line. The syringe-style hands are blued-steel and there is a square sub-dial for the seconds. Additionally, the hands are in good condition with no bending and minimal corrosion. The thermally blued finish is a bright blue in the light.
The acrylic crystal is a replacement which fits the profile of the watch perfectly, with a slight facet to the edge. The crystal is in mint condition.
Summary
This is a classic Art Deco wristwatch from an icon in the watchmaking industry. The Omega T17 movement is one of the outstanding movements of the Art Deco era and this particular watch is a reliable timekeeper. The 60-hour power reserve was unmatched for decades. The search for the elusive Art Deco Omega T17 Tank continues.
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1939 Omega “Tank” T17 at Kibble Watches.
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