Last Updated on April 26, 2025 by Jason
Collecting vintage Swiss watches is a passion that brings history, style, and personal satisfaction. Many collectors begin in the low to mid-range price bracket, roughly between £250 and £2,000. In this guide, we explore ten desirable Swiss watch brands that offer a strong heritage, reliable movements, and potential for appreciation. We share our insights and experiences to help you build a collection that truly reflects your taste.
If you’re looking to start a vintage Swiss watch collection without breaking the bank, there are some excellent options available in the low to mid-range price bracket, roughly between £250 and £2,000. In this post, we’ll introduce you to ten desirable Swiss vintage watch brands that offer unique styles and enduring quality. Each brand has its own story and charm, making your collecting journey both exciting and rewarding.
Certina
Certina is recognised for producing watches that are highly durable and built for everyday use. The brand’s DS (Double Security) technology ensures that its watches are robust and reliable. Vintage Certina models offer excellent value for money and are a solid choice for collectors who want functionality combined with classic style. Certina watches often have a utilitarian design that is both practical and elegant, making them suitable for active lifestyles and formal settings alike.
Desirable Models:
• Certina DS (Original Series) – A rugged vintage dive and sports watch that combines durability with a timeless design. Its robust build appeals to those who lead active lives. (Approximately £250–£1,500)
• Certina Blue Ribbon – A stylish dress watch with an automatic movement. Its refined look and reliable performance make it a versatile option for various occasions. (Approximately £250–£1,000)
Cyma
Cyma is another underrated Swiss brand that produces high-quality vintage watches. Known for its excellent in-house mechanical movements, Cyma offers pieces that often reflect military heritage and utilitarian design. Collectors appreciate Cyma for its blend of durability, functionality, and distinctive style. The brand’s vintage models are highly regarded for their unique character and robust construction. Whether you prefer a dress watch or a rugged military-issued piece, Cyma provides options that cater to different tastes while remaining affordable.
Desirable Models:
• Cyma Navystar – A stylish 1960s watch that straddles the line between dress and sports watch. Its automatic movement and attractive design make it a popular choice. (Approximately £250–£1,000)
• Cyma WWW (Dirty Dozen) – A highly collectible military-issued watch from the World War II era. Known as the “Dirty Dozen,” this model is valued for its historical significance and rugged build. (Approximately £2,000–£4,000)
Eterna
Eterna occupies a special place in the annals of watchmaking history. The brand is credited with pioneering the ball-bearing rotor system that has influenced ETA automatic movements. This innovation makes vintage Eterna watches highly desirable for collectors who value both technical ingenuity and historical significance. Eterna’s vintage models are celebrated for their precision and elegant design. They represent a perfect blend of practical performance and sophisticated aesthetics, appealing to those who wish to own a piece of watchmaking history.
Desirable Models:
• Eterna KonTiki – A historically significant dive watch that embodies adventure and reliability. Its robust design and distinctive look make it a favourite among collectors. (Approximately £500–£1,500)
• Eterna-Matic Centenaire – A refined automatic dress watch celebrated for its elegant design and smooth operation. The Centenaire offers understated luxury, making it ideal for formal occasions. (Approximately £500–£1,500)
Longines
Longines boasts a long and storied history in watchmaking, producing refined and reliable timepieces that have stood the test of time. The brand is well known for its classic designs that exude elegance and simplicity. Longines watches carry a certain sophistication that appeals to those who value tradition. Their vintage models are especially attractive for collectors who seek a blend of functionality and subtle style. Longines watches are admired for their clean dials and balanced design, making them suitable for both formal occasions and everyday wear.
Desirable Models:
• Longines Conquest – A stylish, water-resistant dress watch that exemplifies Longines’ refined approach. Its clean dial and understated elegance make it a reliable everyday companion. (Approximately £500–£1,500)
• Longines Flagship – A refined automatic dress watch equipped with an in-house movement. Its sophisticated design and precise performance have made it a timeless classic for collectors. (Approximately £500–£1,500)
Omega
Omega is one of the most respected names in watchmaking. Its reputation for innovative design and robust in-house movements makes it a favourite among collectors. Many vintage Omega models remain affordable and hold their value over time. Omega watches are known for their elegant designs that work just as well in a boardroom as on a casual day out. They combine precision and style with a strong sense of heritage that appeals to collectors who appreciate both functionality and aesthetics.
Desirable Models:
• Omega Seamaster – A slim, elegant automatic dress watch that blends classic design with dependable performance. Its refined style and balanced proportions make it versatile for many occasions. (Approximately £800–£2,500)
• Omega Genève – A distinctive model from the 1970s featuring an oval case that sets it apart from standard designs. The Genève is admired for its unique shape and vintage charm. (Approximately £500–£2,000).
Roamer
Roamer is an underrated Swiss brand known for its quality timepieces that feature in-house movements. Although it may not be as famous as some of the other brands, Roamer offers high quality at affordable prices. The brand appeals to collectors seeking unique, well-built watches with character. Roamer watches often feature bold design elements and reliable performance, making them an attractive choice for enthusiasts who enjoy both style and substance.
Desirable Models:
• Roamer Stingray – A sporty watch powered by a Valjoux movement. The Stingray offers a dynamic design and robust performance, perfect for those with an adventurous spirit. (Approximately £500–£2,000)
• Roamer Anfibio – A well-built sports watch that combines bold design with durability. Its rugged charm makes it a compelling choice for collectors looking for a versatile timepiece. (Approximately £200–£500)
Tissot
Tissot offers robust Swiss quality at a very accessible price. The brand is known for producing watches that combine practicality with style. Vintage Tissot models often share components with more prestigious brands, meaning you get reliable performance without the high cost. Tissot watches are perfect for new collectors who want a taste of Swiss watchmaking heritage without a hefty price tag. Their designs range from simple dress watches to more versatile sports models, making them an excellent starting point.
Desirable Models:
• Tissot Visodate – A mid-century automatic or hand-winding watch that comes with a useful date function. Its classic design and balanced appearance make it an ideal everyday watch. (Approximately £200–£500)
• Tissot Seastar – A versatile watch that straddles the line between a dress watch and a sports watch. Its automatic movement and robust build offer both style and reliability. (Approximately £250–£1,000)
Tudor
Tudor is often regarded as the more affordable sister brand to Rolex. However, it offers watches that echo the quality and style of its more famous sibling. Tudor is known for producing robust watches with quality cases and dependable movements, often derived from Rolex designs. These watches offer a touch of luxury without the steep price. Collectors appreciate Tudor for its blend of heritage and practicality. Its vintage models provide a glimpse into a world where design and function go hand in hand, making them a worthy addition.
Desirable Models:
• Tudor Prince Oysterdate – This model features a Rolex-inspired case and an ETA-based automatic movement. Its design is both classic and practical, suitable for a variety of occasions. (Approximately £1,000–£2,500)
• Tudor Advisor – A rare vintage alarm watch that offers a unique twist in design and function. The Advisor stands out for its unusual features and vintage charm, appealing to collectors seeking something different. (Approximately £1,000–£2,000)
Universal Genève
Universal Genève stands out for its elegant designs and innovative micro-rotor automatic movements. The brand’s vintage pieces have become increasingly collectible due to their distinct style and historical significance. Universal Genève watches are admired for their blend of functionality and beauty, making them perfect for collectors who appreciate detailed craftsmanship. Their models often feature sleek cases and refined dials that enhance their overall allure. Universal Genève watches tell a story of a rich tradition in watchmaking that continues to inspire modern collectors.
Desirable Models:
• Universal Genève Polerouter – Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, this model features a sleek case and a micro-rotor movement that exudes sophistication. Its sporty elegance makes it a versatile addition to any collection. (Approximately £1,000–£2,000)
• Universal Genève Uni-Compax – A beautiful chronograph that captivates with its vintage appeal. The Uni-Compax combines functionality with a striking design, making it a standout piece for collectors. (Approximately £1,000–£2,000)
Zenith
Zenith is celebrated for its high-quality in-house movements and innovative approach to watchmaking. Despite its prestigious reputation, some vintage Zenith models remain within an affordable range for collectors. Zenith watches are a testament to Swiss precision and modern design, often featuring clean lines and striking aesthetics. They appeal to collectors who value both technical excellence and a timeless look. Zenith offers watches that work well in both formal settings and everyday wear, combining functionality with style.
Desirable Models:
• Zenith Stellina – A classic model available in both manual-wind and automatic versions. The Stellina is noted for its refined design, making it an elegant choice for dress occasions. (Approximately £900–£2,000)
• Zenith Sporto – A durable, minimalist hand-wound watch that embodies a rugged yet sophisticated aesthetic. Its simplicity and robustness have made it a favourite among collectors seeking practicality with a classic look. (Approximately £700–£1,000)
Conclusion
Collecting vintage Swiss watches in the low to mid-range price bracket is a journey that combines passion, history, and personal style. The brands discussed above offer a variety of choices, each with its own unique character and appeal. Omega stands out for its timeless design and dependable movements, while Longines offers refined elegance that has endured through the decades. Tissot presents strong Swiss quality at accessible prices, and Zenith provides prestigious timepieces that remain affordable for discerning collectors. Universal Genève brings innovative design and micro-rotor movements that have become highly collectible. Tudor offers Rolex-inspired quality without the steep price tag, and Certina provides rugged durability with a practical focus. Eterna honours its pioneering heritage in automatic movements, while Roamer delivers unique, affordable timepieces with in-house movements. Finally, Cyma offers a blend of style and military heritage that is both robust and historically rich.
While budget considerations are important, they should not overshadow the personal connection you feel with a watch. Focus on pieces that speak to you and that you will enjoy wearing. Authenticity, condition, and service history are critical factors to consider. Take your time to research each potential purchase and always verify details from multiple sources. Trust your instincts and allow your passion to guide your decisions. Avoid impulsive purchases and learn from the experiences of others in the vintage watch community.
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