Last Updated on January 18, 2025 by Jason
Georges Favre-Jacot, originally Georges-Emile Favre-Bulle, was born on December 12, 1843, in Le Locle, Switzerland, and passed away in 1917 at the age of 73. By the end of his life, he had become an esteemed watchmaker and entrepreneur. Leaving school at the age of nine to pursue a trade, he soon found himself apprenticed to a local watchmaker. At twenty, he married Louise-Philippine Jacot-Descombes, herself from a family of watchmakers, and adopted the name Georges Favre-Jacot. The watchmaking company he established would ultimately evolve into the renowned brand known today as Zenith.
Origins
In 1865, 22-year-old Favre-Jacot launched his watchmaking business in Le Locle. At the time, it wasn’t yet named Zenith; that official brand name came later, in 1911. He used his wife’s modest dowry to set up his initial workshop, naming it “Fabrique des Billodes” after its location in the Billodes district. This modest beginning grew over the years into a substantial manufacturing complex, encompassing multiple buildings and dedicated to centralizing production. As Favre-Jacot’s company expanded, he took inspiration from the emerging trend in the United States, where fully integrated watchmaking factories were proving efficient. Recognizing the potential of a centralized production system, he saw it as the future of Swiss watchmaking and began to adopt similar practices.
Factory
Traditionally, Swiss watchmaking relied on a decentralized model, or *établissage*, where artisans worked in separate workshops. Components were crafted independently and then brought together at a central location for assembly. Favre-Jacot revolutionized this approach by consolidating Zenith’s artisans and watchmakers under a single roof, thus creating one of the first modern watchmaking factories in Switzerland. Completed in 1881, this factory allowed for real-time exchanges of ideas and techniques, which led to significant technological advancements. By manufacturing components in-house and implementing standardized parts, Favre-Jacot streamlined the production process, facilitating the creation of interchangeable components that enabled a broader variety of movements, ultimately allowing for increased efficiency and economies of scale.
Awards
Favre-Jacot initially focused on producing high-precision pocket watches. However, by the early 20th century, Zenith began to diversify its range, adding table and pendulum clocks to its offerings, and later moving into marine and aviation chronometers. In response to the demands of the First World War, Zenith even introduced trench watches. In 1899, Favre-Jacot developed Zenith’s first pocket chronograph, which soon won a gold medal at the 1890 Paris Universal Exhibition. By regularly participating in chronometry competitions at the Neuchâtel Observatory, Zenith further established its reputation, winning first place in 1903. By then, the company had opened branches in Moscow (1908), Paris (1909), Vienna (1910), and London (1914). The original factory in Le Locle, built by Favre-Jacot, remains a historical landmark and a testament to his pioneering contributions to watchmaking.
The birth of the Zenith brand
In 1911, while considering a name for a newly developed movement, Favre-Jacot found inspiration in the night sky. The sight of the stars reminded him of the interconnected parts of a watch movement, and he chose the name “Zenith,” symbolizing the highest point in the heavens. Reflecting this celestial inspiration, the company later incorporated a five-pointed star into its logo, embodying Favre-Jacot’s vision of precision and innovation.
Significant milestones and innovations in watchmaking
Zenith has long been renowned for its precision and craftsmanship, achieving milestones that have cemented its place in watchmaking history. A timeline of Zenith’s notable achievements follows:
1909 – Louis Blériot famously wore a Zenith watch during his historic flight across the English Channel.
1911 – Georges Favre-Jacot retired due to health issues, passing control of the company to his nephew, James Favre, who had already been expanding Zenith’s international reach by visiting Europe, the Americas, Asia, and beyond to introduce Zenith’s craftsmanship to new markets.
Trench watches
When World War I erupted in 1914, Zenith was already established as a leading Swiss watchmaking house. The war sparked a demand for wristwatches suited to the battlefield, and in 1915, Zenith introduced the “Land & Water” model. Rather than distributing this model globally, Zenith produced it exclusively for the prestigious London jeweller Birch & Gaydon, which ranked alongside prominent names like Mappin & Webb, Garrard, and Asprey. This limited availability added to the watch’s exclusivity. The Land & Water watch was marketed as “absolutely damp and dust proof.” Though the screw-back case and bezel provided solid waterproofing for the time, the unsealed winding stem limited its resistance to water. Still, it was considered a high-quality timepiece and bore the Zenith signature on its case and movement, though the dial itself was marked by the retailer’s name.
Post-war
Following the First World War, Zenith continued to innovate, developing wristwatches with features like alarm and chronograph functions. In 1929, an English astronomical observatory reported that a Zenith watch had set a new accuracy record, with a daily deviation of only 0.6 seconds. The 1948 release of calibre 133 played a significant role in advancing the now-standard central seconds complication.
Establishing a reputation for accuracy (1900s–1950s)
Throughout the 20th century, Zenith earned a reputation for the precision of its timepieces. The 1929 introduction of the calibre 135 marked one of its most significant achievements, winning numerous observatory competitions in the 1950s. Zenith watches became popular among military personnel and explorers who relied on their accuracy under demanding conditions. The brand also expanded into the production of pilot’s watches and instruments, adopted by aviators and military forces, including the French Air Force, for their durability and accuracy. The historical “Zenith Pilot” watches remain highly prized among collectors today.
The El Primero Era (1969)
In 1969, Zenith introduced the El Primero movement, a revolutionary advancement in watchmaking. The El Primero was one of the first automatic chronograph movements and distinguished itself with a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, allowing it to measure time to an impressive 1/10th of a second. Unlike its competitors, which added automatic modules to manual movements, the El Primero was an integrated automatic chronograph, compact and highly reliable. Its high beat rate allowed for greater accuracy and smoother chronograph hand movement, making it a remarkable breakthrough in watchmaking precision.
The Quartz Crisis (1970s–1980s)
The 1970s brought the “Quartz Crisis,” as Japanese quartz watches challenged the traditional Swiss watchmaking industry. Zenith, like many Swiss brands, faced financial difficulties. To adapt, the company produced quartz models and ceased El Primero production in 1975. However, Charles Vermot, a Zenith watchmaker, took the bold step of preserving the tools and designs for the El Primero by hiding them in a Zenith attic. This intuitive action saved the El Primero, enabling Zenith to resume its production in the 1980s when the demand for mechanical watches began to rise again. Vermot’s foresight ultimately preserved an iconic movement in watchmaking history.
Revival and expansion
As interest in mechanical watches resurged in the 1980s, Zenith reintroduced the El Primero, re-establishing itself as a leading Swiss brand. By the 1990s, Zenith expanded its line, developing new mechanical movements while retaining its historic designs. The brand’s reputation continued to grow, with the El Primero achieving renewed popularity and respect. In 1999, Zenith was acquired by the LVMH Group (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), joining the ranks of luxury brands such as TAG Heuer and Hublot. This acquisition brought investment and international exposure, enabling Zenith to explore new designs and materials while maintaining its heritage.
Legacy and influence
Zenith’s dedication to accuracy and innovation has made it a respected name in Swiss watchmaking. The El Primero movement, in particular, stands as a landmark achievement in watchmaking, blending high-frequency accuracy with robust design. With a legacy spanning over 150 years, Zenith is synonymous with resilience, precision, and a commitment to innovation. Now part of the LVMH luxury group, Zenith continues to craft high-quality watches. These Zenith watches are admired by collectors and watch enthusiasts worldwide, carrying forward the vision of the founder, Georges Favre-Jacot.