No disrespect intended, but Zenith’s modern watches have never quite captured my interest. While the El Primero chronograph is widely seen as a modern classic, I lean toward simplicity. Complicated watches just don’t match my taste in watches. That said, when it comes to vintage watches, Zenith stands as an iconic watchmaker, and their vintage pieces have always been high on my wish list. This Zenith Curvex “tank” wristwatch dating from 1939 is no exception. It’s a rectangular (barrel or tonneau-shaped) luxury dress watch from the late 1930s, in an Art Deco style that would look stylish on the wrist in a modern formal occasion.

A brief history of Zenith
Zenith was founded in 1865 in Le Locle, Switzerland, by 22-year-old Georges Favre-Jacot, who transformed the traditional watchmaking process by centralising production in a single factory. This innovation allowed for streamlined manufacturing and the production of highly precise movements. Originally called Fabrique des Billodes, the brand adopted the name Zenith in 1911, inspired by Favre-Jacot’s view of the stars, symbolising the peak of achievement.
Zenith’s commitment to accuracy quickly earned it a reputation for excellence. In 1909, aviator Louis Blériot wore a Zenith watch during his historic flight across the English Channel. This marked the brand’s entry into aviation watches. Throughout the early 20th century, Zenith gained acclaim for its precise chronometers, winning numerous observatory competitions and expanding into international markets.
In 1969, Zenith introduced the El Primero, one of the first automatic chronograph movements, with an industry-leading 36,000 vibrations per hour. This allowed it to measure time to 1/10th of a second. The challenges posed by the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s, meant Zenith like many Swiss brands, faced financial difficulties. To adapt, the company produced quartz models and ceased El Primero production in 1975.
Zenith resumed production of the El Primero in the 1980s when the demand for mechanical watches began to rise again. Acquired by LVMH in 1999, Zenith has continued to innovate while preserving its heritage. Today, it remains a highly regarded name in luxury watchmaking. Zenith is celebrated for its precision, durability, and the legendary El Primero movement, which has become an icon of Swiss watchmaking.
Zenith calibre 8 3/4 F
The Zenith 8 3/4 F watch movement features a bimetallic screw balance and a Breguet hairspring. It is a manual wind movement with sub-second functionality. The manual wind movement has 15 jewels, a power reserve of 38 hours and a frequency of 18,000 vph. Additionally, the movement has a pinned regulator, which is one of the most traditional and widely used regulator mechanisms. It operates through an index that slides along a scale, adjusting the effective length of the hairspring. By moving this index, the watch’s timing can be fine-tuned to run faster or slower as required. This simple yet effective system allows for easy adjustments by shifting the index pointer. The calibre 8 ¾ F movement was launched in 1939 and measures 8.75 ‴ x 12 ‴ lignes or 20 mm x 26.8 mm. The movement has a serial number which dates back to 1939.

Case and dial
The watch has a barrel (Tonneau) case, which is a design known for its elegance and is often associated with luxury watches. The case measures 22mm wide excluding the winding crown and 31mm high excluding the lugs. The case is chrome-plated stainless steel and it is in very good condition. The front and sides have general light marking, the back has some marking and pitting. The inner case back is signed with the Zenith name. Back in the 1930s watches of this size were made for men. However, in the modern era fashion has changed and this watch could be worn by the fairer sex. The slight curve on the case back means the watch sits snugly on the wrist.
The acrylic crystal shows a slight imperfection at 10 o’clock. However, this is only visible under a certain angle. Overall, the watch is in an impressive condition for a piece that dates from the 1930s. The Zenith signed dial is in its original finish with the original syringe hour and minute hands. The dial has aged-related markings, but this is considered patina, which is quite desirable for collectors. The Arabic numerals have faded and may have once included luminescent paint.
Summary
This 1939 Zenith Curvex “tank” wristwatch is an ideal vintage watch for collectors who value both design and heritage. Its elegant tonneau shape and Art Deco style are refined yet versatile, making it a timeless accessory suited to modern formal wear. The watch houses a Zenith 8 ¾ F movement, known for its quality and reliability. At just 22mm wide and 31mm high, the watch’s chrome-plated stainless steel case retains a pleasingly understated size. The gentle curve on the case back makes for a comfortable fit on the wrist. Its condition is impressive for its age, with the original dial, age-related patina and vintage-style syringe hands, adding to its authenticity and appeal. However, at the time of writing, some other more proactive vintage watch collector had the same thoughts and snatched the watch before I could complete my research. Another near miss!
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