Vintage watch case design

In this guide, we will explore the most common types of vintage watch case shapes and designs, their popularity over different periods, and how they relate to specific types of watches and materials. In the early days of watchmaking, timepieces were fragile and easily damaged. To safeguard their intricate mechanisms, the first watch cases were made from precious metals such as gold and silver. As watchmaking advanced into the 20th century, watch case manufacturers began exploring new shapes, sizes, and materials to meet shifting consumer demands. The development of waterproof and shock-resistant cases represented a major breakthrough. This greatly enhanced the durability and versatility of watches, allowing them to withstand everyday wear and more demanding environments.

Asymmetrical case

Asymmetrical watch cases are similar to round cases but feature a slight extension on the crown side, where the crown and stem are located. This design is meant to provide additional protection and balance for the crown. Asymmetrical cases are especially common in chronographs, which have additional pushers for stopwatch functions alongside the crown. The distinction between round and asymmetrical cases can be subtle, often making them difficult to differentiate at a glance. This design became particularly relevant with tool watches, where practicality and protection of the crown mechanism are critical features. This is probably the least common design of watch case. I certainly don’t have one in my collection.

Cushion case

The cushion case, while similar to round cases, has softer, more rounded edges, often resembling a squarish or slightly elongated shape. It emerged during the Art Deco era alongside more geometric case designs like squares and rectangles. Cushion cases experienced a resurgence in the adventurous 1970s, especially among chronographs and tool watches. This design was favoured for its balance of ruggedness and style, often associated with professional-grade watches. The material most commonly used was stainless steel. However, it was also made in gold and gold-plated variants, reflecting its versatility across different price points and markets.

Oval case

Oval watch cases are characterized by their ellipsoid shape, with one dimension being longer than the other. Unlike tonneau shapes, oval cases lack defined edges and often feature integrated lugs. This design was almost nonexistent before the 1960s but gained traction in the 1970s, particularly in dress watches where elegance was prioritized. Oval cases are typically found in gold, often signalling high-end craftsmanship and being a favourite among haute horlogerie brands. This case shape stands out as an artistic choice, used to create refined, minimalist watches.

Octagonal case

The octagonal case is most famously associated with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, launched in 1972. This groundbreaking design featured an industrial, angular aesthetic with integrated lugs and was among the first luxury watches made from stainless steel rather than precious metals. While octagonal shapes were previously rare, the success of the Royal Oak sparked wider interest, influencing brands like Cartier, whose Santos Octagon was released in 1978. Octagonal cases became particularly popular in the 1980s and 1990s, offering a bold, modern alternative to more traditional shapes. The materials used for octagonal cases tend to be sturdy and utilitarian, with stainless steel becoming iconic due to its role in defining this case’s rugged yet luxurious appeal.

Round case

The round case is the most enduring and widespread watch shape, synonymous with timekeeping since the inception of wristwatches. Its dominance in watch design lasted throughout most of the 20th century, peaking in popularity between the 1940s and 1960s. Though the late 1960s and 1970s saw more experimentation with case designs, the round case remains a classic. Its ubiquity spans various types of watches, from everyday pieces to high-end luxury models. The materials used reflect its broad appeal: roughly a third of round cases are made of gold, while the majority are made of stainless steel. The balance of function and timeless style make the round case a staple in both vintage and modern watch collections.

Square case

Square cases, although less common than round ones, have a long history in watchmaking. With origins predating the mid-20th century, they enjoyed peaks in popularity during the 1950s and early 1970s. Square watches are typically associated with elegance and formal dress watches, but the Heuer Monaco, introduced in 1969, brought the square case into the realm of sports watches. This genre-defying chronograph helped redefine square cases, combining sharp, angular aesthetics with bold, modern designs. Gold and gold-plated versions of square watches were especially popular, reinforcing their association with classic, dressier timepieces.

Tonneau and rectangular case

Tonneau (French for “barrel”) and rectangular cases share similarities, with both featuring elongated shapes that are longer than they are wide. However, tonneau cases have curved sides, while rectangular cases have straight, clean edges. Both designs became popular during the Art Deco period and were typically used for elegant dress watches. Tonneau and rectangular watches saw increased interest during the 1970s and again in the 1990s. These designs are often made from precious metals like gold, or gold-plated materials, reflecting their connection to luxury and formal wear. While not as popular as round cases, tonneau and rectangular shapes have a devoted following, particularly among collectors of vintage dress watches.

Cyma Watersport rectangular wristwatch, 1930s.

The design revolution of the 1970s

The 1970s marked a pivotal era in watch case design, with a surge of new and daring shapes emerging. Traditional designs were reinterpreted, with bold, angular cases challenging the more conservative round and square forms of previous decades. The Heuer Monaco, with its square case, is a prime example of this shift, taking a shape traditionally associated with dress watches and reimagining it for sports models. This period saw watchmakers pushing the boundaries of form and function, creating cases that were not only aesthetically striking but also suited to the evolving needs of consumers. Whether it was the bold geometry of the Royal Oak’s octagonal case or the playful revival of the cushion shape, the 1970s redefined watch design for the modern era.