In this post, we take a look at a 1950’s Tissot bumper automatic. I have long held an interest in the Tissot brand. It has a long history and still survives today. I have written before about my first Swiss mechanical watch, which was a Tissot Visodate. It is not yet vintage, but that particular watch started my appreciation of the brand. Since, I have been collecting vintage watches I have grown more interested in automatic, quite simply because I am lazy and prefer not to wind my watches daily. This Tissot is of particular interest because it uses a bumper automatic movement.
The history of Tissot
Tissot was founded in 1853 by Charles-Félicien Tissot and his son, Charles-Émile Tissot, in Le Locle, Switzerland, a town renowned for its watchmaking heritage. Working from a modest workshop attached to their family home, they utilized the établissage system, a traditional method in which they acquired ebauches (blank movements) and assembled the final timepieces in-house.
In the late 19th century, Tissot expanded its reach internationally, with Charles-Émile travelling to Russia to promote the brand. His efforts secured a strong following within the Russian Empire, boosting Tissot’s reputation abroad. By the early 20th century, Tissot had become a pioneering force in Swiss watchmaking, making notable contributions such as introducing one of the first anti-magnetic watches in 1930.
The company began producing its own movements in 1915, a significant step that included the manufacture of wristwatches. However, the global financial crisis of 1929 severely impacted the watch industry. To navigate these challenges, Tissot merged with Omega SA and Lemania in 1930, forming SSIH (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère). Despite the merger, Tissot and Omega preserved their unique brand identities, continuing to produce watches independently under their respective names.
During the 1950s and 1960s, Tissot introduced several iconic lines, including the Seastar, Visodate, and PR516. These models remain part of Tissot’s heritage collection today. In the 1980s, Tissot joined the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaker and distributor, further cementing its place in the global watch industry.
Tissot Calibre 28.5-1
The Tissot calibre 28.5-1 bumper automatic movement is a notable vintage movement introduced by Tissot in 1943. This period saw many Swiss manufacturers innovating with automatic winding systems. Tissot’s adoption of the bumper design reflects a creative approach to the mechanics of self-winding watches. The “bumper” automatic, distinct from later full-rotor automatic mechanisms, uses a semi-circular oscillating weight that moves back and forth, “bumping” against springs to wind the mainspring. The movement’s design, with its limited range of oscillation, creates a subtle, unique sensation on the wrist as it winds, which remains a point of appeal for vintage watch enthusiasts today.
The calibre 28.5-1 features a diameter of 28.5 mm, making it a compact and versatile movement well-suited to the mid-sized watch cases popular during its production years. It operates at a frequency of 19800 vibrations per hour (vph), standard for watches of its time, contributing to reliable accuracy. The movement also offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours and includes Incabloc shock protection. Tissot equipped the movement with 17 jewels to reduce friction, which helps extend the movement’s lifespan.
Produced from 1944 to 1953, the calibre 28.5-1 was part of Tissot’s push toward reliable, accessible automatic watches. While not extravagantly decorated, the movement was finished with a clean, functional look that speaks to the Tissot’s emphasis on practical design over ornamentation.
Case
The movement is fully signed and it has the serial number 2,672,602 which dates it back to 1952.
The watch measures 34mm in diameter excluding the winding crown and the lugs. The 34mm diameter case was a common size for men’s watches in the 1950s. Modern watches tend to be larger, but vintage collectors often appreciate the classic, understated dimensions of mid-century watches.
The case is stainless steel and is in good condition. Steel cases from the 1950s have proven to be highly durable. They add an extra layer of appeal for collectors who prefer watches that can withstand regular use. The good condition of the case, with only minor surface marks, suggests either careful ownership or a long life sitting in a drawer. The back of the watch states that the watch is waterproof. However, as with any vintage watch, it should be kept away from water and moisture.
The caseback is stamped “non-magnetic”. Tissot was also one of the first companies to manufacture an antimagnetic wristwatch in the early 1930s. At the time, there were two main methods of assembling an anti-magnetic watch, housing the movement inside a soft iron cage (Faraday) or, making the parts out of non-magnetic alloys like Invar, Elinvar, or Nivarox.
Dial
The watch has a signed Tissot winding crown. Replacement crowns or unscrewed crowns diminish the originality. Even small details like the original crown add value and desirability to vintage watches. The acrylic lens is in mint condition with no visible markings. The Tissot signed dial has its original hands, a subsidiary seconds dial and outer minute markers. The dial’s light markings, a patina that vintage watch collectors affectionately refer to as “freckling,” adds to its charm. Patina forms over decades due to exposure to light, air, and moisture, creating unique, often beautiful patterns on vintage dials.
Summary
This Tissot bumper automatic is an excellent example of 1950s Swiss watchmaking with characteristics that appeal to vintage watch collectors. Its originality, well-maintained case, and period-specific patina all contribute to its desirability. For the discerning vintage watch collector, this Tissot offers a tangible link to an era where automatic watch technology was in its infancy.
Related content
Tissot at Wikipedia.
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