Last Updated on September 21, 2024 by Jason
Over the past few decades, the vintage watch market has seen an interesting aesthetic shift. According to Christie’s Auction House, the newfound appeal of vintage watch patina is a phenomenon that is here to stay. The appeal for “honest” patina has grown over the last decade. In the years preceding, many collectors were interested in acquiring vintage watches that had been restored and polished to look ‘like new’ in favour of watches in original condition.
Now this trend has reversed and collectors have grown to appreciate the subtle nuances of the nicks scratches and fading that have developed on vintage watches over decades of use by previous owners. It is now accepted that patina enhances the desirability of vintage watches and, as a result, the value of those watches. It is possible to buy a vintage watch that has sat unsold or untouched (New Old Stock or Mint condition), but these are a rarity.
What is vintage watch patina?
Patina on a vintage watch refers to the natural ageing process that affects the appearance of the watch over time. This can include changes in the colour and texture of the dial, hands, case, strap or bracelet, and even the lume (the material that makes the watch glow in the dark). As vintage watches age, exposure to light, air, moisture, and other environmental factors causes gradual changes in the materials used in their construction. This creates a distinct look that collectors and enthusiasts often find appealing.
Dial patina
The dial of a watch may develop a range of colours due to ageing, often turning brown, cream, or even tropical (a warm, brownish tone). Sunlight and oxidation typically cause these changes. The patina can be uniform or mottled, giving the dial a unique texture and depth.
Lume patina
The lume (luminous material) on the hands and hour markers may degrade over time, developing a faded or yellowed appearance. Tritium and radium, often used in older watches, are known for their patina as they age.
Hand patina
The hands of vintage watches age over time. The colour and texture changes, often as a result of oxidation, which alters the overall appearance over time. This patina can significantly enhance the aesthetic character of a vintage timepiece, giving it a unique and aged look.
Case patina
Metals like stainless steel, gold, and bronze develop patina due to oxidation and wear. In bronze watches, the patina can take on a greenish or brownish hue, while steel cases may show light oxidation or darkened spots. Naturally, the scratches on an unpolished case add to the patina.
Crystal, bezel and bracelet patina
Crystals made from materials like acrylic or plexiglass can become scratched, hazy, or develop a yellowish tint. This is a quality which many collectors appreciate for the added vintage look. Bezels, especially those constructed of aluminium or bronze change in colour over time. What was once a vibrant red or blue may soften to pastel shades or a bronze might develop a greenish hue. Metal bracelets acquire a patina of nicks and scratches which is considered a mark of authenticity and history.
Desirability of patina
Patina is seen as a sign of age and authenticity, demonstrating that the watch has remained largely unaltered. For collectors, a well-developed patina can indicate that a watch hasn’t been overly restored or refinished, preserving its originality. No two watches develop patina in exactly the same way, so a unique patina gives the watch character. Collectors, often prize watches with dials that have turned tropical (brownish) or developed an even, attractive colouration.
It also depends on individual taste. Personally, I appreciate patina, it provides character and verifies authenticity and originality. If I wanted a pristine mechanical watch, I would buy a modern timepiece. That is just my preference, there are still collectors out there who value restored watches, but these days, they are the minority.
Does patina increase the value of a vintage watch?
Patina can often increase the value of a vintage watch, but it depends on the individual timepiece, the type of patina, and the preferences of collectors. The patina also needs to be genuine. There are unscrupulous dealers out there that will try to artificially simulate patina using chemical corrosion, these should be avoided at all costs.
There are types of patina that are known to increase the value of a vintage watch. Tropical dials are highly collectable, where dials have turned from black to brown due to long-term exposure to sunlight. These are particularly desirable in certain brands, such as vintage Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe watches. Bezels that have faded from their original colour due to wear can be seen as a charming sign of age. For example, faded “ghost” bezels on Rolex Submariners are highly valued. Lume patina is also very collectable. Vintage watches often used tritium or radium for lume (the glowing material on the hands and markers). Over time, this material can turn to shades of yellow, orange, or cream, which is considered desirable when evenly aged.
Not all patina adds value. If the ageing results in rust, corrosion, or other forms of deterioration that affect the watch’s function or appearance in a negative way (e.g., uneven blotches, water damage), it can significantly lower its value. While some wear is expected, a dial that has been severely damaged by patina, with cracks or heavy discolouration, may hurt the overall value.
In summary, patina generally increases the value of a vintage watch when it’s considered attractive and authentic. Collectors often view it as a badge of history and uniqueness, but the key is that the patina must enhance the aesthetic appeal without compromising the watch’s integrity.
Preserving patina
Restoring, cleaning or simply leaving the patina finish untouched on your vintage watch is a personal decision. If you are buying vintage watches as your passion, buy what you like and make whatever changes you like. If you are buying for an investment it is best to focus on originality and leave the patina untouched. I collect vintage watches because I enjoy them. I certainly don’t buy them with the intention of reselling and making a profit, although it is nice when that happens! In my opinion, sympathetic, manual cleaning is perfectly acceptable, as long as you are not removing the signs of patina. Even if you are just getting a dial “cleaned”, be very clear with your instructions. It is far too easy for an over-zealous technician to take matters into their own hands and completely restore the dial.
Summary
Patina on vintage watches is highly valued for its ability to tell a unique story. It signifies the watch’s journey through time, adding character and authenticity. Collectors appreciate patina for its rarity and the distinct, often beautiful, aging effects it creates, such as “tropical” dials that develop unique hues. This natural aging process enhances the watch’s originality and can significantly boost its desirability and value. Patina also serves as a mark of the watch’s originality, distinguishing it from modern replicas or overly restored pieces. Overall, patina adds a layer of charm and history that many collectors, including this one, find irresistible.
Related content
Patina at Wikipedia.
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