Last Updated on October 5, 2024 by Jason
The Rolex Submariner is often hailed as one of the most iconic watches in the world, and for good reason. It has a blend of robust functionality, timeless design, and history dating back to the early 1950s. All of this has cemented its status as a classic timepiece, desired by vintage watch collectors around the world. Alongside the Omega Speedmaster, the Submariner is one of the grail watches for most vintage watch collectors, including this one. I don’t own either of these classic timepieces yet, but both are on my radar.
The history of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 and made its public debut at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. It was claimed to be the first watch to be water-resistant up to 100 metres, a groundbreaking achievement at the time. In addition to the water resistance, the Submariner’s rotating bezel, which could be used to measure elapsed time, and its luminous markers for visibility underwater, made it an indispensable tool watch for professional divers. Although not the first, it was one of the earlier watches to include a rotating bezel. This innovation was important because it allows divers to monitor their remaining oxygen supply and ensure safe ascent times.
Over the decades, the Rolex Submariner has undergone numerous updates and improvements. The initial models, such as the reference 6204, set the foundation with their simple yet functional design. Subsequent models introduced enhancements like increased water resistance, improved movements, and the addition of a date function. Despite these changes, the core design elements of the Rolex Submariner have remained consistent, preserving its classic look and timeless presence.
Why the Rolex Submariner is an iconic timepiece
Several factors contribute to the enduring appeal of the Rolex Submariner. Firstly, its design is both functional and elegant. The watch’s clean lines, robust case, and distinctive bezel make it instantly recognisable. The Submariner’s versatility also plays a significant role in its popularity. It is equally at home in formal settings as it is in the depths of the ocean, making it a favourite among watch enthusiasts, sportsmen and casual wearers.
Known for its ruggedness, the Submariner is built to withstand harsh underwater conditions. It makes it a favourite amongst professional divers and adventurers. The Submariner has also had a significant cultural impact having been featured in numerous films, most notably being worn by James Bond. The widespread media presence has cemented its status as a symbol of sophistication and adventure. As a brand, Rolex is synonymous with luxury, precision, and reliability. The Submariner embodies these qualities, contributing to its iconic status.
Classic Submariner models
Over the years, several Submariner models have become particularly iconic. The reference 6204, being the original, is an obvious choice. Not far behind is the 6538, known as the “Bond Submariner”. The reference 5512, produced from 1962 to 1989, is one of the most beloved vintage models. It is known for its simplicity and its durability. Another classic is the reference 1680, introduced in the late 1960s, which was the first Submariner to feature a date complication.
The 16800 which was produced from 1979 to 1988, replaced the traditional acrylic crystal with sapphire. In more recent times, the reference 16610, produced from 1989 to 2010, has become a modern classic. It introduced a sapphire crystal and improved movement while retaining the traditional Submariner aesthetics. The current models, such as the reference 116610 and the latest 126610, continue to build on this legacy with advanced materials and technology, including ceramic bezels and updated movements. We explore the features of some of these classic Submariners below.
Rolex Submariner 6204 (1953-1954)
This is often considered the original Submariner model. It marked the beginning of the Submariner line, featuring a 100-metre water resistance and a simple, clean design that set the standard for future dive watches. Unlike later Submariner models, the vast majority of 6204 dials did not specify the depth to which the watch could be submerged. The 6204 Submariner was able to achieve its 100-metre water resistance due to the screw-down winding crown and the extra-thick “Tropic” acrylic crystal.
Rolex Submariner 6538 (1956-1959)
The Submariner reference 6538 became famous as the watch worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in Dr No, From Russia with Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball. In each film actor Sean Connery wears the 6538 with several different strap combinations and utilises it to complete his missions. It has since been known as the “Bond Submariner. One of the most recognisable features of Submariner 6538 is the oversized crown and the lack of crown guards. The 6538 uses a Rolex calibre 1030 movement that contains twenty-five jewels and beats at a frequency of 18,000vph. Like all Submariner watches of the time, the reference 6538 displays only the time of day, as the date complication was not available until the introduction of the reference 1680 in 1966. Personally, I prefer the no-date versions of the Submariner.
Rolex Submariner 5512 (1959-1980)
This was the first Rolex Submariner to feature crown guards, which provided extra protection for the winding crown. The crown guards were designed to make the Submariner more durable by reducing the risk of an accidental bump snapping the winding crown off. The addition of the crown guards increased the size of the Submariner too, expanding to 40mm in diameter from the previous 38mm. The 5512 was also the first chronometer-certified Submariner, ensuring high precision using the Caliber 1560 (later 1570). This is indicated by the “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” text on the dial. This added an extra 2 lines of text on the dial, 4 lines as opposed to 2 on earlier models. The 5512 was also one of the last to use an acrylic crystal and one of the first to feature Tritium based luminescence.
Rolex Submariner 1680 (1967-1979)
The 1680 was the first Submariner to include a date function, complete with the iconic Cyclops lens over the date window. The watch was powered by the Rolex Caliber 1575, a robust and reliable movement that included the date function. Early models of the 1680, produced up until around 1975, are referred to as the “Red Sub” because the word “Submariner” on the dial was printed in red. These models are particularly collectable today. After 1975, Rolex switched to white text, and these versions are sometimes called “White Subs”. The watch featured a 40mm stainless steel case, with a rotating bezel and a water resistance of 200 meters (660 feet).
Rolex Submariner 16800 (1979-1988)
The 16800 was produced from 1979 to 1988 and represents an important transitional model in the evolution of the Submariner. The 16800 was the first Submariner to feature a sapphire crystal, replacing the acrylic crystal used in earlier models. This sapphire crystal provided greater scratch resistance and durability. The 16800 also increased the Submariner’s water resistance from 200 meters (660 feet) to 300 meters (1000 feet), a standard that has continued in modern Submariners. This enhanced its durability and functionality as a professional dive watch. It was powered by the Caliber 3035 movement, which introduced a quickset date function. The 16800 retained the classic rotating bezel. However, during its production run it transitioned from a traditional matte dial to a gloss dial, a feature that continues in modern Submariners.
Rolex Submariner 16610 (1988-2010)
At the time of writing, September 2024, with our definition of vintage watches being 25 years old, this particular model might be pushing the boundaries. The latter half of the production run for the 16610 is certainly not yet vintage. The 16610 featured the new Calibre 3135 movement, which included a quickset date function. The movement contributed to the watch’s COSC chronometer certification. It was used in the Submariner line for many years due to its durability. The watch case was constructed from 904L stainless steel and included featured the classic aluminium bezel insert with a unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives. The 16610 remains highly sought after due to its combination of vintage appeal and modern reliability. It represents a transitional phase between older Submariner models with aluminium bezels and the newer models with ceramic bezels.
This is only a small selection of the Rolex Submariner references that were produced over the years. These models each played a crucial role in the evolution of the Rolex Submariner, contributing to its reputation as one of the most iconic and sought-after dive watches in the world.
Conclusion
The Rolex Submariner’s status as an iconic watch is well-deserved. Its combination of innovative features, timeless design, and historical significance make it a standout in the world of horology. Whether as a tool for divers or a symbol of luxury and achievement, the Rolex Submariner continues to captivate watch enthusiasts around the world. I look forward to the day when I can add one to my collection.
Related content
Rolex at Wikipedia.
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