Last Updated on September 28, 2024 by Jason
I came across this vintage Certina Waterking online and thought it was a really appealing watch from a much-underappreciated brand. I had every intention of buying this watch after I had completed my research. What a frustrating effort that was! Despite all of the online resources at hand, the history of the Certina Waterking is obscure at best. At this point, I still haven’t finished my research and the watch has long since been sold. However, I didn’t want to waste the effort, so here is what I have learned. Hopefully, there will be more information to come about the Certina Waterking.
A brief history of Certina
Founded in 1888 by brothers Adolf and Alfred Kurth in Grenchen, Switzerland, Certina started as a family business under the name “Kurth Frères.” The company’s early success was rooted in its commitment to precision and quality, values that would come to define the Certina brand. In 1939, the company adopted the name “Certina,” derived from the Latin word certus, meaning “certain” or “reliable.” This new name reflected the company’s growing reputation for reliability and precision in the Swiss watch industry.
The 1950s and 1960s marked a period of significant innovation for Certina. One of the brand’s most notable achievements was introducing the DS (Double Security) Concept in 1959, which revolutionised shock and water resistance in wristwatches. This system provided Certina watches with enhanced durability, allowing them to withstand harsh conditions. Certina watches were trusted companions on various expeditions, such as the first ascent of the Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal and the US Navy’s SEALAB II project. By the 1960s, Certina had become synonymous with high-quality, rugged timepieces. Today, as part of the Swatch Group, Certina continues to build on its legacy of producing reliable and accessible watches.
The Certina Waterking: a dress watch made for the outdoors
I found a single 1960s catalogue reference to a Certina Waterking 215. It was listed as “In the Certina gold-plated collection for men, precision and elegance are united to perfection. The individual models reflect modern technical and aesthetic tastes, and they complement a tuxedo just as well as a business suit or sports attire”. The gold plating was 20 microns thick and the watch was listed as Wasserdicht (waterproof). Clearly, the Waterking was being marketed as a dress watch that was suitable for sporting activities.
To the best of my knowledge, the Certina Waterking made its debut in the 1950s as a versatile watch. The Waterking, as the name suggests, was designed with water resistance in mind, making it suitable for activities like swimming and sailing. However, I cannot find any reference to the level of water resistance. Over the years, the model underwent various updates and revisions, but its core design as a versatile dress watch remained unchanged.
Certina 23-36 movement
The Certina 23-36 watch movement is a manual wind mechanical movement introduced around 1963. It features a sweep second function and is equipped with a pinned regulator for improved accuracy. The movement incorporates an Incabloc shock protection system for enhanced durability and reliability. The movement has 17 jewels, a power reserve of 43 hours a frequency of 19800 vph.
The pinned regulator is one of the most widely used regulator mechanisms which operates through an index that slides along a scale, adjusting the effective length of the hairspring. By moving this index, the watch’s timing can be fine-tuned to run faster or slower as required. This simple yet effective system allows for easy adjustments by shifting the index pointer. Additionally, the Incabloc Shock Protection system ensures that the movement can endure the bumps and knocks often encountered during outdoor activities.
The dial and case
The design of the Certina Waterking is a case of classic elegance meeting functionality. Measuring 34mm in diameter, the stainless steel case is compact by modern standards. However, the smaller size was typical of watches from that era. The case features a screw-down caseback, which enhances the watch’s water resistance and durability. The signed crown, an iconic detail of many Certina watches, allows for easy winding and setting. A signed crown is also a good sign of originality, which is a factor most vintage watch collectors value.
One of the standout features of this Waterking is its “linen” dial, a subtle textured design that adds a touch of sophistication to the watch. The dial retains its original finish, with the Certina logo proudly displayed beneath the 12 o’clock marker. The hands, including the centre seconds hand, are original to the watch, further preserving the timepiece’s authenticity. Tritium luminescence is most likely used on the hour markers and hands, ensuring that the watch remains legible in low-light conditions.
Strangely, although the DS (Double Security) concept was introduced in 1959, the dial does not include this feature. However, as a dress watch, it may not have been seen as applicable.
The Waterking also features acrylic glass, which was commonly used in watches of this period. While not as scratch-resistant as modern sapphire crystal, acrylic has the advantage of being easily polished to remove any scratches, helping to maintain the watch’s clarity over time.
Conclusion
This Certina Waterking is a perfect example of Swiss watchmaking excellence during a time when durability and precision were paramount. With its reliable in-house movement, rugged design, and elegant appearance, the Waterking will appeal to many vintage watch collectors. The lack of information about the Waterking model has been a major source of frustration. However, I have reached out to Certina and several other online Certina resources in the hope that someone can shed more light on this particular model. I’ll be sure to add any further information that comes my way. Hopefully, I’ll be in a position to buy the next Certina Waterking that crosses my path.
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