Longines Admiral 5 star wristwatch, 1970s

Last Updated on September 28, 2024 by Jason

This is a vintage Longines Admiral 5-star automatic wristwatch in excellent condition. The movement is signed with the Longines name and the serial number dates back to the mid-1970s. Longines is one of the most underrated brands in the vintage watch world, in my opinion, it’s just as deserving of attention as other well-known Swiss brands, such as Rolex and Omega. This is a high-quality vintage timepiece and in this post, we will examine the history of the brand, model and features of the Longines Admiral 5-star automatic.

The history of Longines

Longines was founded in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz, a Swiss watchmaker, and two business partners, Henri Raiguel and Florian Morel. The company’s original name was Raiguel Jeune & Cie. Agassiz became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business. Soon after Agassiz introduced his nephew, Ernest Francillon to the business. The brand quickly gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces and became known for its precision and reliability. The company set up its first manufacturing factory in 1867. Located in an area of southern Saint-Imier known as Les Longines (meaning “long meadows”), the new factory’s location would ultimately lend itself to the company’s new name, Longines. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass, which today is considered the world’s oldest unchanged logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO).

Longines logo.

Initially, Longines operated using the traditional établissage system, which involved assembling watches using components purchased from other watch manufacturers. However, in 1867, Longines created its first in-house movement, the 20A, followed by its first chronograph movement in 1878. Throughout the 20th century, Longines continued to push the boundaries of watchmaking. The brand became synonymous with sports timing, serving as the official timekeeper for numerous international sporting events, including the Olympic Games. Longines’ dedication to precision and elegance has earned it a loyal following among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

The Admiral collection

The Longines Admiral collection was introduced in the late 1950s as part of the brand’s effort to offer a range of watches that combined elegance with robust performance. The Admiral line was designed to cater to individuals who sought a watch that could withstand the rigours of daily wear while maintaining a sophisticated appearance. The collection quickly gained popularity for its distinctive design and reliable movements.

The Admiral 5-star model was introduced in the early 1960s as a premium addition to the Admiral collection. The five stars on the dial symbolised the highest level of quality and performance that Longines offered. These watches were equipped with automatic movements and featured various complications, such as day-date functions, which added to their appeal.

L633.1 movement

The L633.1 movement is based on the ETA 2824-2 movement. However, the only discernable difference between the two is that the movement is signed with the Longines name. The ETA calibre 2824-2 is perhaps one of the most respected and most recognised automatic movements in the industry. As a result, it is also one of the most copied or “cloned” movements. The ETA 2824-2 has been in production since 1982. Its features include a bi-directional rotor, 25 jewels, hacking, a date complication, 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph) and a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. It is equipped with a quick-set date function, allowing the wearer to easily adjust the date without having to cycle through the entire month.

There are four grades of the ETA 2824-2 available with the main differences being how the watches are tested at the factory, the finish, the mainspring, the hairspring, and the anti-shock device used. The grades are Standard, Elaborated, Top and Chronometer. In this instance, the Top Grade version is used, this includes a Glucydur balance wheel, an Anachron hairspring and Incabloc shock protection. The expected accuracy of the Top grade ETA calibre 2824-2 is +/-4 seconds per day up to +/- 15 sec/day.

Case and dial

The watch features a 35mm diameter case, not including the winding crown and lugs. The gold-plated case is in good condition, with only minor rubbing that does not detract from its appearance. The stainless steel screw-on case back has a few light surface scratches. The screw-on case back also ensures better water resistance, adding a layer of durability to the watch. However, like all vintage watches, it should not be considered waterproof.

Gold plating is a process where a thin layer of gold is applied to the surface of a base metal, typically through electroplating. This process enhances the appearance of a watch by giving it the luxurious look of gold while keeping costs down compared to a solid gold case. In watches produced in the 1970s, including the Longines Admiral 5-Star, 14k or 18k gold plating was commonly used. The thickness of the gold plating on these models was typically between 10 to 20 microns (0.01 – 0.02 millimetres). This is consistent with industry standards at the time. This provided a reasonable level of durability while still maintaining a luxurious look.

The winding crown bears the Longines name. The acrylic crystal lens is also in very good condition. The signed dial remains in excellent, original condition, complete with the original hands, centre seconds, and a quickset date function (first position). Another sign of quality is that the indices are applied rather than printed. This gives the dial a three-dimensional appearance and enhances legibility.

Summary: Longines Admiral 5 star wristwatch

This gentleman’s vintage Longines Admiral 5 star in a gold-plated case is an exceedingly high-quality model that is very wearable while at the same time being an appreciating asset. However, Longines is a much-underrated brand in the world of vintage watch collecting. As the years go by and the appreciation for the brand grows, so will the investment potential. When judged purely on its case or movement finish and dial quality, the Longines Admiral is the equal of Omega’s Seamaster or the Rolex Oyster Perpetual from the same period. I am a big fan of the brand and this Admiral 5 star is the perfect example of the high-quality watches that Longines produced in the 1970s.