Last Updated on November 18, 2024 by Jason
I have been searching for a vintage Omega Seamaster for a number of months. In my opinion, the Omega Seamaster is a must-have for any serious watch collector. I am looking for a vintage Seamaster, dating from the early 1960s. It should be in very good condition and a reliable timekeeper. I don’t expect the watch to be mint, I don’t mind patina, I just don’t want to see any damage. The watch should also be as original as possible, so an untouched dial with an original crown and Omega movement is essential. And, of course, it must have the Hippocampus logo on the case back. Anything else is a bonus. I found this classic 1962 Omega Seamaster Reference 165-009 at Kibble Watches, which ticked all the boxes, except it was sold. Kibble Watches was kind enough to allow me to write about this classic timepiece.
Omega history
Originally known as the “La Generale Watch Co.”, Omega was founded in 1848 by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. When Louis died in 1879, his sons Louis-Paul and César, continued the business. In 1880 they moved to 96 Rue Jakob-Stampfli Biel/Bienne, where the company is headquartered today. The brothers produced their first mass-produced calibre, the Labrador, in 1885. A few years later in 1892, they produced the first minute-repeater. In 1894, the company developed an in-house movement known as the 19 ligne calibre. The brothers named the new movement ‘Omega’, a name in Greek which means extreme or final part. The movement became very popular with the public. In 1903 they renamed the company Omega until 1982 when they officially changed their name to Omega SA.
During WW1 Omega watches were used as official timekeepers for the Royal Flying Corps and the US Army. In WW2, Omega, was one of the brands selected by the British Ministry of Defence to supply the military watches later known as the “Dirty Dozen”. In 1948 they introduced the first edition of one of its most symbolic watches, the Seamaster. After stringent tests, NASA used Omega for all their Apollo missions including the 1969 Moon landing of Apollo 11. The watch was called the Omega Speedmaster, which remains the company’s most iconic timepiece. Today Omega is part of the Swiss Swatch Group and is known most recently for their collaboration with Swatch in creating the Moonswatch.
Omega Seamaster
The Omega Seamaster was first introduced in 1948 to celebrate Omega’s 100th Anniversary, it was immediately popular and is Omega’s longest-running model. The first Omega Seamaster was loosely based on waterproof watches designed for the Royal Navy during World War Two. The appeal of the Seamaster design was the use of an O-ring gasket, which provided resistance to temperature changes and depth pressure. In 1955, the Swiss Laboratory for Watch Research successfully tested 50 Seamaster cases to a depth of 60 meters. Omega was so confident in their design that in 1956 they strapped one to the outside of a plane and flew it over the North Pole.
What started out as a robust watch for British military divers evolved to become a sophisticated timekeeping accessory worn by the likes of James Bond. Over the last seventy years, the Seamaster brand has grown to become the most varied in Omega’s entire range. The Seamaster name has appeared on the dials of sophisticated dress pieces and functional tool watches. As well as an accessory, the Seamaster has been the favoured timepiece of underwater divers and military personnel.
Omega calibre 552
The Omega Calibre 552, 24 Jewel automatic movement fitted to this watch was one of Omega’s most successful movements. It was launched in 1958 and remained in production until 1969. The movement is 12.5 ‴ lignes (28.4mm) in diameter with a power reserve of 50 hours, a frequency of 19,800 vph and includes Incabloc shock protection. The movement is correctly signed ‘Omega Watch Co. Swiss’ and is marked calibre 552, along with the serial number which dates this watch to 1962. This movement is very highly regarded for its accuracy and reliability, making this watch perfectly suited for everyday use.
Case
This 1962 Omega Seamaster (reference 165.009) has a round stainless steel case with a 34mm diameter excluding the signed Omega crown. It has a lug-to-lug length of 41.5mm, the lug width is 18mm. The overall dimensions make this particular timepiece suitable as a modern dress watch. The inside of the case-back is signed ‘Omega Watch Co.’, ‘Fab Suisse’, ‘Swiss Made’. Overall, the case looks to be in excellent condition, it has been lightly polished and has some fine markings from normal use.
On the case back is the embossed Hippocampus logo. According to legend, it is said that Poseidon, the god of the sea drove a chariot drawn by a hippocampus. In the 1950s, an engraver by the name of Jean-Pierre Borle was working at Omega. Jean-Pierre Borle took a trip to Venice and noticed a hippocampus engraved on the side of a gondola. Inspired by his observation, Jean-Pierre Borle designed the hippocampus logo. In 1958, the hippocampus became the symbol of the Omega Seamaster as a means to signify the watch’s water-resistant capabilities.
Dial
A domed glass crystal protects the champagne-coloured dial, which includes applied polished baton indices. The watch has slim sword hands which are complemented by a tapered sweeping centre seconds hand. The dial is signed, with “Omega Automatic” at 12 o’clock, “Seamaster” at 6 o’clock and Swiss Made at the base. The dial is in very good condition. The text is intact and there are only a few age-related spots, which are difficult to see without magnification.
The watch has been fitted with a high-quality tan leather strap and includes the original steel Omega buckle. I know from experience that the buckle is one of the components most likely to be missing from any vintage watch. To have the original crown and buckle is a true bonus and ticks all of the boxes for originality.
Summary
This 1962 Omega Seamaster Reference 165-009 had everything I was looking for, except for the price! It was listed as sold, so some other lucky vintage watch collector is wearing this Seamaster on their wrist as I type. However, it has introduced me to Kibble Watches, which look to be a great source of vintage timepieces. I will be a regular visitor and hopefully next time I spot the perfect Seamaster, it will still be wearing a price tag.
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