Last Updated on February 22, 2025 by Jason
Strictly speaking, trench watches have not been considered vintage for decades, they are beyond vintage and very much antique. However, the design of the trench watch and its practical usage throughout the First World War led to a change in how we presented the time. For this reason, we take a brief look into the history of the trench watch and how it influenced the modern timepiece you are wearing on your wrist right now.
Back in the early 1900s, if you were a man, you carried a pocket watch. Wristwatches? Those were for women, delicate little “wristlets” that were more a piece of jewellery than a genuine watch. Most men wouldn’t be caught dead wearing one. That all changed when World War I came along. Suddenly, pulling out a pocket watch while dodging bullets and aiming a rifle wasn’t just impractical, it was dangerous. The solution? It was simple. Strap that pocket watch to your wrist and just like that, the trench watch was born.
The idea of wearing a watch on the wrist wasn’t entirely new. Some soldiers had experimented with it during the Boer War, and the benefits were obvious. But it was WWI that really cemented the trench watch as an essential piece of kit for military personnel. Timekeeping in battle was no longer just about personal convenience, it became a matter of life and death.
From pocket to wrist: a practical transition
Pocket watches had their moment, but they weren’t designed for the realities of war. Imagine fumbling around in your uniform, trying to check the time while holding onto your rifle. Not exactly ideal. Military tactics were evolving, with carefully timed attacks becoming more crucial than ever. Time was of the essence, artillery barrages and advances were timed to the second. When soldiers started wearing their watches on their wrists, it was a game-changer.
British soldiers who had tested early military wristwatches gave them glowing reviews. Being able to check the time at a glance meant better coordination and fewer missed opportunities on the battlefield. Timing became just as important as firepower, and wrist-worn watches became indispensable.
The first trench watches
Who actually created the first men’s wristwatch? Nobody knows for sure. According to some sources, the Swiss watchmaker Girard-Perregaux produced a series of wristwatches for the German Navy in 1880. However, during World War I numerous companies, including Omega, Longines, and others produced wristwatches for the military. These watches were of similar styles with an enamel dial, wide white numerals, and radium-coated hands for visibility in the dark. Interestingly, many of them didn’t even bear a brand name, though the movements inside were unmistakably Swiss made.
The design of these watches was a transitional step. They borrowed elements from pocket watches, such as hinged front and back covers, but added lugs, which were small metal loops that held the strap in place. At first, these lugs looked more like wire attachments rather than an integrated part of the case. Over time, though, manufacturers refined the design, paving the way for the modern wristwatch.
At the time, they were still called “wristlets,” a term that stuck around until the early 1930s. Eventually, the more familiar “wristwatch” took over, and by then, no one thought of them as feminine anymore. The trench watch had well and truly earned its place in history.
The trench watch in today’s world
Fast-forward a century, and trench watches are still making waves. By modern standards, their small size might seem a bit unusual, but there’s an undeniable charm to them. The combination of military practicality and vintage elegance has sparked a revival, with some watchmakers bringing back the classic look with contemporary upgrades.
There’s something special about these timepieces. They started out as tools of war, yet they’ve transcended their original purpose to influence modern watch design and to become collector’s items. From the muddy trenches of WWI to the wrists of today’s style-conscious watch collectors, trench watches have literally stood the test of time.
If you’re a history buff, a fashion enthusiast, or just someone who appreciates a well-crafted watch, there’s no denying the impact of the trench watch. It’s a piece of history you can wear, a reminder of how necessity drove innovation and a testament to the ongoing appeal of a simple yet brilliant idea.
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Girard-Perregaux at Vintage Watch Straps.
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