In the 1970s Longines released a lot of different designs in the Conquest line, this was one of them. Vintage Longines still offers undeniable value in the vintage watch market, this model is the perfect example of that. It has a high-quality 25-jewel automatic movement and is cased in stainless steel. The watch is in very good condition for its age, for someone looking for an affordable entry into great Swiss watches by some very well-respected brands, this Longines is perfect.
A brief history of Longines
Longines was founded in 1832 by Swiss watchmaker Auguste Agassiz, alongside business partners Henri Raiguel and Florian Morel. Originally named Raiguel Jeune & Cie, the company saw Agassiz assume full ownership in 1846 after his partners, who were both attorneys, decided to retire from the watchmaking business. Around this time, Agassiz introduced his nephew, Ernest Francillon, to the company. Known for crafting precise, high-quality timepieces, the brand quickly gained a reputation for reliability. In 1867, Longines established its first manufacturing facility in the southern Saint-Imier area of Les Longines, or “long meadows,” which inspired the company’s new name, Longines. In 1889, Francillon registered Longines’ iconic winged hourglass logo, a symbol that, according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), remains the world’s oldest unchanged logo.
Initially, Longines adhered to the établissage system, assembling watches from parts sourced from various suppliers. However, a significant milestone came in 1867 with the development of its first in-house movement, the 20A. This was followed by Longines’ first chronograph movement in 1878, demonstrating a growing technical expertise. Throughout the 20th century, Longines continued advancing its craft, becoming closely associated with sports timing and serving as the official timekeeper for numerous international events, including the Olympic Games. Known for its precision and elegance, Longines has built a loyal following among watch enthusiasts and collectors around the world.
Longines Conquest
The Longines Conquest line was launched in 1954, marking an important step in the brand’s evolution by creating its first purpose-built sports watch. Designed to meet the needs of a more adventurous clientele, the Conquest was aimed at offering both reliability and refined aesthetics. This was an era when Longines sought to diversify beyond traditional dress watches, responding to a growing interest in outdoor activities and exploration.
The first Conquest models were distinct for their rugged build, featuring water-resistant cases and sturdy case backs engraved with a goldfish emblem, symbolising the watch’s resistance to water. These models housed automatic movements that underscored Longines’ expertise in crafting precise, self-winding mechanisms. Key design elements included clear, easy-to-read dials with applied indices, dauphine hands, and an overall aesthetic that balanced functionality with elegance, making the Conquest suitable for both sports and formal settings.
Initially, Longines placed the goldfish engraving on Conquest case backs to visually reinforce its commitment to durability and water resistance, which were relatively novel features at the time. By the 1960s and 1970s, water-resistant watches had become more commonplace, and the goldfish emblem began to appear less frequently as Longines explored new styles and icons in response to shifting tastes. Over time, the Conquest collection expanded to include chronographs and high-accuracy quartz models, reflecting advancements in horological technology.
Longines calibre 431
The watch has a high grade 25 jewel calibre 431 Ultra-chron automatic movement which is working nicely. The movement is fully signed and the serial number dates the watch to 1973. The Longines 431 watch movement, was produced from 1967 to 1976. It featured a variable number of jewels ranging from 17 to 25. The automatic movement includes sweep seconds and a quickset date function. It has a power reserve of 40 hours, KIF shock protection and a frequency of 36,000 vph.
The Longines Ultra -Chron was launched in 1967 to celebrate the 100 year anniversary of the company. At that time it was promoted as the world’s most accurate watch. It was advertised within a “minute a month”. The faster oscillating balance was designed to be less vulnerable to shock, making it a better timekeeper. The bi-directional rotor is mounted on ball bearings and has a heavy tungsten-carbide edge. The steel escape wheel has 21 teeth rather than the usual 15, to achieve the high beat rate. A pleasant side effect was the incredibly smooth seconds hand. Specifically, for the Ultra-Chron line, Longines developed a new lubricant “molybdenum disulphide” which proved to remain on the parts longer than traditional oil lubricants.
This was Longines’ first attempt at a 36,000 vibrations per hour movement. They made many of them from 1966 through 1972. High frequency means that regular servicing is crucial to maintain reliability and timekeeping. Deferred maintenance by careless or unwitting owners caused many of these to wear out before their time. In 1972, Longines changed to the calibre 665X series of movements running at 28,800 vph to replace the calibre 431.
Case and dial
The watch measures 35mm in diameter excluding the winding crown and the lugs. The case is stainless steel and it is in good condition, just the odd small mark, nothing serious at all. The inside of the case back is signed Longines. In addition, this piece has retained its original signed Longines winding crown. A new leather strap has been fitted although the original Longines signed buckle has been kept. This is a rare find in the world of vintage watch collecting.
The signed dial is in its original finish with baton hands, centre seconds sweep and an early form of quickset date where the hands are turned backwards and forwards repeatedly between 12 midnight and 10 pm. The dial is also signed T SWISS MADE T, indicating that the luminescence on the dial is Tritium based.
Summary
This gentleman’s vintage Longines Conquest in a stainless-steel case is a high-quality model that is very wearable while at the same time being an appreciating asset. Longines is a much-underrated brand in the world of vintage watch collecting. However, as the years go by and the appreciation for the brand grows, so will the investment potential. When judged on its case, movement or dial quality, the Longines Conquest is the equal of other Swiss made watches from the same period. Personally, I’m a great admirer of the brand. This Conquest automatic is a prime example of the high-quality watches Longines produced in the 1970s.
Related content
Longines at Wikipedia.
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