Last Updated on January 13, 2025 by Jason
This is a stunning Longines Art-Deco cushion cased wristwatch dating from 1927 with a 14k gold case. It is an eye-catching timepiece with its vivid yellow gold case and a dial that has aged beautifully. The luminescent paint on the dial is remarkably intact for a watch of this age. The case is noticeably smaller than modern watches. However, it sits well on the wrist and would suit a modern gentleman in formal or business attire.
A brief history of Longines
Longines is one of the oldest “still active” watch manufacturers in the world. It was founded in 1832 by Auguste Agassiz in the Swiss town of Saint-Imier. Over the course of its history, Longines has built a reputation for precision, reliability, and innovation. The company established the Longines factory in 1867, marking the beginning of mechanised production. This set Longines apart from traditional handcrafting methods. This move towards industrialised watchmaking allowed Longines to produce watches more consistently and with greater precision.
Longines registered its famous winged hourglass logo in 1889. The logo remains one of the oldest unchanged logos in the watch industry. Throughout the 20th century, the brand became synonymous with innovation in timekeeping, being an official supplier to the International Aeronautical Federation in 1919 and creating important collaborations with pioneers like Charles Lindbergh, who worked with Longines to design the Hour Angle Watch. Longines remained relevant through its innovations in watchmaking, including the introduction of its first self-winding movement in 1945 and its role as the official timekeeper for prestigious sporting events, including Formula One and the French Open at Roland Garros.
The 1927 Longines Art Deco cushion-cased wristwatch sits firmly within this tradition of innovation and craftsmanship. The watch, a beautiful example of the Art Deco period, encapsulates both the technical prowess of Longines and the design aesthetics of an era that emphasised geometric shapes and bold, clean lines.
The Art Deco movement and cushion-cased wristwatches
The Art Deco movement, which originated in the 1920s and flourished into the 1930s, was an international style that combined modernist forms with fine craftsmanship and rich materials. The style was characterised by geometric shapes, symmetry, and a departure from the ornamental flourishes of earlier design eras like Art Nouveau. In watch design, the Art Deco influence was strongly felt, with cases and dials adopting geometric, streamlined shapes that mirrored the trends of architecture, automobiles, and interior design of the time.
The cushion-shaped case, as seen in this 1927 Longines wristwatch, was one of the most distinctive forms to emerge from the Art Deco period. Unlike round or rectangular cases, cushion-shaped cases are slightly rounded squares or rectangles with softened edges. This design not only provided an elegant design appeal but also offered practical advantages. It fits comfortably on the wrist, giving the wearer a more natural, comfortable feel compared to the bulkier round cases of the era.
Wristwatches became increasingly popular in the early 20th century, especially as men shifted away from pocket watches after World War I. The cushion shape allowed for a bold yet refined look, perfectly suited for formal occasions or business attire. As evidenced by this particular Longines model, the design’s proportions, with its 31mm by 27mm dimensions and 14k yellow gold case, make it a versatile piece of timeless elegance. Despite being smaller than modern watches, its sleek, low-profile design ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist and a refined presence that complements formal attire.
The Longines calibre 11.84N
The core of this 1927 Longines wristwatch is the Longines Calibre 11.84N, a 15-jewel manual wind movement. The 11.84, introduced in 1899, was a small hunter-calibre movement. It was commonly seen in Ladies’ fob watches from the early 20th century. In 1909, Longines introduced the 11.84N variant, which offered a design more suited to wristwatches. These movements were developed during a time when wristwatches were overtaking pocket watches in popularity, necessitating smaller, more reliable movements that could fit comfortably into wristwatch cases.
The 11.84N is a thinner version of its predecessor, the 11.84, measuring just 4.1mm in height compared to the original’s 4.8mm. This reduction in thickness made it ideal for wristwatches, which required a more compact movement without sacrificing reliability. The diameter remained at 25.4mm, or 11.5 lignes, a common size for movements at the time. This size made it versatile for a variety of case designs, including the cushion case.
The 11.84N movement is also equipped with 15 jewels, which were strategically placed to reduce friction at key points. This enhances both the movement’s longevity and accuracy. With a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) and a 34-hour power reserve, the movement offered impressive performance for its era. The inclusion of a bimetallic screw balance and a flat hairspring further contributed to its precision.
There is some speculation that the “N” in the movement’s name stands for non-magnetic. This suggests that the movement may have been designed to resist the effects of magnetic fields, which could disrupt a watch’s accuracy. Typically, anti-magnetic movements were made from alloys that were resistant to magnetic forces. Experimentation with anti-magnetic watch movements began in the 1840s, with further developments in the late 19th and early 20th century. However, it wasn’t until 1930, that Tissot introduced the first non-magnetic wristwatch. I doubt that the “N” represents non-magnetic, but I am happy to be proven wrong.
Case and dial
This 1927 Longines Art Deco cushion-cased wristwatch represents Swiss craftsmanship at its finest. The 14k yellow gold case, being Swiss, doesn’t have date hallmarks. The design of the case, with its curved lugs and domed crystal, provides an elegant frame for the aged dial. Measuring 31mm by 27mm and sitting at 8.5mm thick, the watch is compact. However, the clean lines and bright yellow gold case give it a bold presence on the wrist. The signed crown with its coin-edge finish is another original feature that adds value to collectors.
The dial, with its thermally blued sword hands and radium-coated hour markers, reflects the Art Deco style. Much of the original luminescent paint is intact, which is unusual. Although the radium is still radioactive, the dial no longer glows as the zinc sulphide phosphor in the paint has long since decayed. Some age-related flecks exist on the dial, which adds to the character and charm of the watch. For vintage watch collectors, patina is rarely a bad thing. The small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock further accentuates the balance of the design. Lastly, the matching serial numbers on the case and movement confirm its authenticity and originality, a key factor for collectors.
Summary
In summary, this Longines Art Deco cushion-cased wristwatch from 1927 is not only a stunning piece of vintage design. It’s also a remarkable example of early wristwatch engineering. The calibre 11.84N movement, with its historical significance and precision, makes this timepiece a valuable and highly collectable item. Although there is little information online regarding the Longines calibre11.84N, it would be a desirable movement for vintage watch collectors. The 11.84N represents a transition period in watchmaking. It was made when watchmakers were refining pocket watch movements to suit the growing demand for wristwatches. Whether admired for its elegance or appreciated for its technical sophistication, this Longines wristwatch represents the height of Art Deco style.
Related content
Longines website.
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