Last Updated on May 3, 2025 by Jason
Buying a vintage watch is exciting, but it can also feel overwhelming. For those not involved in watchmaking or collecting, the process may seem complex and intimidating. Vintage watches have a rich and nuanced market with numerous styles, terms, and brands to learn. I remember the first vintage watch I bought, an Omega Geneve automatic wristwatch dating to 1968. It was purchased after a lot of research and a lot of procrastination, but I remember the thrill of wearing that vintage watch. It was worth the effort and the nerves. This post is a beginner’s guide to buying your first vintage watch.
Navigating this vast world can be challenging for a new buyer looking to make a smart purchase. Online auctions and websites offer countless “classic” or “vintage” timepieces, making it easy to buy but harder to ensure authenticity, originality or value. This guide aims to simplify the basics of buying a vintage watch for beginners, so you can make an informed and rewarding purchase.
Why collect vintage watches?
Before we start, let’s ask a simple question: Why collect vintage watches? A simple question, with a simple answer: Vintage watches have a charm that attracts collectors from all over the world. They offer the unique appeal of historical value, exceptional craftsmanship, and investment potential.
Historical significance
Each vintage watch has a story, and these timepieces connect us to moments from the past. They may have been worn by notable people or survived through historic events. For instance, the Rolex Submariner worn by Sean Connery in James Bond films or the Omega Speedmaster taken to the moon by astronauts. Wearing a vintage watch can feel like wearing a small piece of history on your wrist.
Exceptional craftsmanship
Vintage watches represent a bygone era of meticulous craftsmanship. In the past, watches were often handcrafted in limited quantities and made with high-quality materials, not like the mass-produced “Fashion watches” of today. Many vintage models showcase an impressive level of artistry and precision. Well-regarded brands like Rolex, Omega, and Longines have created models that are prized by collectors for their quality and design.
Investment potential
Collecting vintage watches can also offer financial rewards. Some vintage models have appreciated considerably in value, particularly rare or limited-edition pieces. For collectors, the appeal lies in both personal enjoyment and the possibility of future profit. The value of vintage Swiss wristwatches has significantly increased since the early 1990s, partly due to their classification as “wasting assets” under UK tax law. According to HM Revenue & Customs, wasting assets are items expected to last fifty years or less and lose value over time, making them exempt from Capital Gains Tax upon resale.
Where to start?
For beginners, the vintage watch market can feel intimidating. How do you identify respected watchmakers, understand the historical significance of different periods, and determine fair prices? Many collectors will say that experience and patience are the best teachers. However, you don’t need expert-level knowledge to start. This guide covers key areas to consider, such as understanding what makes a watch vintage, learning about popular brands, evaluating provenance and condition, setting a budget, factoring in maintenance costs, and understanding watch movements.
What exactly is vintage?
The term “vintage” can mean different things to different people. Generally, a watch is considered vintage if it’s 25 years old or older. However, age alone doesn’t necessarily make a watch vintage.
A true vintage watch has qualities that make it timeless, classic, and functional, with superior craftsmanship and design. It should have lasting appeal, distinguishing it from styles that are simply old, retro, or antique.
The importance of brand and model
The brand and model of a vintage watch provide insights into its history, value, and quality. Vintage watch brands often carry legacies, sometimes from companies that no longer exist. Certain models are rare due to limited production, early innovations, or unique features.
Familiarising yourself with popular vintage watch brands and models can help you find something that aligns with your preferences. Brands like Rolex, Omega, and Tissot each offer iconic models, each with a unique history and reputation. A bit of research will help you discover the brands and models that speak to your style and interests.
Provenance and ownership
The provenance, or history, of a vintage watch can significantly impact its value. A watch with a single owner in excellent condition will usually be worth more than one that shows heavy wear or has had multiple owners. The story behind the watch also adds to its appeal. A vintage watch that includes provenance, such as the original box and papers, will sell at a premium.
Timepieces with rich histories are often found through private or estate sales, well-known auction houses, or established retailers. Watches with more diverse backgrounds, like those found at flea markets, antique shops, or online sites like eBay, may come with less verified histories but are often more affordable.
Assessing the condition
Evaluating a vintage watch’s condition is essential but requires practice. Begin by examining the surface and outer casing for scratches, dents, or other damage. Check the clarity of the dial and crystal, as well as any engravings that may affect the aesthetic.
Take a closer look at the back of the movement to spot any signs of rust or oxidation. Another important detail is whether the watch has been serviced or had parts replaced. Some vintage watches show service marks on the case back, a code left by watchmakers to indicate the service history. While these marks may be hard to decode, they often indicate that the watch has been cared for over the years.
Know your budget and preferences
Establishing a budget early in your search is essential. Vintage watches range widely in price, so a clear budget helps you stay focused. Also, consider your style preferences. Would you like a classic dress watch or a tool watch with a military or sportier look? Knowing your taste can make it easier to filter through options and find something you love.
Factor in maintenance costs
Vintage watches often require regular maintenance, which can be a significant ongoing cost. Basic servicing, which includes cleaning, oiling, and possibly replacing worn parts, helps ensure that your watch stays in good condition. Factoring these costs into your budget can help you avoid unexpected expenses after your purchase. Choosing a well-maintained watch may save on future repairs.
Learn about watch movements
Understanding watch movements is another key to making an informed choice. Most vintage watches use either automatic or manual movements. Although some could use quartz. Mechanical watches require manual winding, while automatic watches wind themselves as you wear them. Familiarising yourself with these movements helps you appreciate the mechanics behind vintage watches and decide which type suits your lifestyle. My preference is automatic, I like to set the watch, wear it for a week and not have to worry about winding it daily. Some collectors prefer the opposite, they like the ritual of winding a vintage watch daily.
Take your time
Buying a vintage watch is more than just a purchase, it’s a journey. Take your time exploring different models, styles, and brands. The more you learn, the more confident you’ll feel in making a decision. Patience often pays off, allowing you to find a timepiece that truly resonates with you.
Conclusion
Purchasing a vintage watch combines history, art, and personal style, creating an experience unlike any other. With a bit of research and patience, you can find a vintage watch that not only adds elegance to your wardrobe, but also connects you to a rich heritage. From understanding what qualifies as vintage to assessing condition and factoring in maintenance costs, this beginner’s guide offers essential steps to help you begin your vintage watch journey with confidence.
Whether you’re drawn by history, craftsmanship, or investment potential, a vintage watch can become a cherished piece of your collection. Take your time, enjoy the search, and look forward to the pleasure of owning and wearing a piece of watchmaking history.
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