Roamer Popular wristwatch, 1950s

Last Updated on November 16, 2024 by Jason

I came across this vintage Roamer Popular wristwatch dating from the 1950s. It is the perfect example mid mid-20th century Swiss watchmaking with its simplicity, reliable movement, and elegant, yet understated, appeal. It has a Roamer MST 371 movement, which is a notable model for those who appreciate the quality and precision of vintage watches. I decided to do some research into the Roamer wristwatch company’s history and the Popular brand itself. Here is what I discovered regarding this Roamer Popular wristwatch.

A brief history of Roamer

Fritz Meyers (1859-1926) established a small watchmaking workshop in 1888 in Solothurn, Switzerland, with just six employees. Initially, he focused on the budget segment of the market, producing watches with cylinder escapements. By 1895, the business had grown significantly, employing 60 people and expanding into the production of complete watches sold under various brand names. These watches were assembled using components sourced from other manufacturers. A major milestone came in 1897, when Meyers’ workshop developed its first in-house calibre, named “38” to commemorate the founder’s 38th birthday.

By 1905, Meyers had already registered around a dozen original calibre designs. Eager to grow further, he partnered with Swiss watchmaker Johan Studeli, and together they founded the company Meyers and Studeli, commonly known as MST. The company quickly became known for creating reliable and affordable watches, gaining recognition for its in-house movements.

By 1906, MST had expanded its workforce to 120 employees and required a larger facility to meet increasing demand. They built a new factory in Solothurn, near the Jura mountains, capable of accommodating 300 workers. At this point, the company’s focus remained on producing low-cost watches featuring cylinder movements.

Expansion and acquisition

In 1917, MST expanded further by acquiring L. Tieche-Gammeter (LTG), another prominent Solothurn-based watch company. LTG was renowned for crafting high-quality lever escapements and was behind popular brands such as Satisfaction, Roamer, and Tiega. Notably, the Roamer brand had been officially registered by LTG on April 21, 1908. In 1920, MST trademarked the brand names Roamer and Medana. The Roamer brand would be the company’s premium line with Swiss lever movements, and the Medana brand would continue to use the basic cylinder movements. The business survived the depression and changed the company name to Roamer in 1952.

By the 1950s, Roamer had become a well-established name in the global watch industry, known for producing durable and precise wristwatches. The company became fully integrated by creating all its components in-house, including the movements and cases, which allowed it to maintain strict quality control. It was during this period that Roamer solidified its place as a producer of fine mechanical watches, producing models that combined elegance with ruggedness. Like many Swiss watch companies, it struggled to survive the Quartz Crisis. In 2003, Roamer returned to manufacturing mechanical watches.

The Roamer Popular brand

The Roamer Popular line was introduced during the 1950s, a time when wristwatches had firmly transitioned from being tools of utility for soldiers and pilots to stylish accessories for everyday wear. The “Popular” model name reflected Roamer’s intention to create a watch that was accessible to a wide audience while maintaining a high standard of quality and style.

Although the exact year of the Popular’s introduction is unclear, it is often associated with the 1950s, an era of post-war optimism and increasing consumerism. People wanted reliable, elegant watches that could be worn in both casual and formal settings. The Roamer Popular series hit satisfied that requirement, offering consumers a tasteful blend of aesthetics and functionality.

The design of the Roamer Popular watches featured elegant yet understated dials, simple hour markers, and slender hands. The watches were housed in gold-plated cases, often with stainless steel case backs, ensuring durability and a touch of luxury. This balance between quality materials and affordability made the Roamer watches a success. Unlike, other Roamer watch brands, I’m yet to find any vintage advertisements that promote the Roamer Popular range.

The Roamer MST 371 movement

At the heart of this 1950s Roamer Popular wristwatch lies the MST 371 movement. The MST 371 was introduced in 1944 and remained in production until 1962, a testament to its reliability and popularity. Early samples featured a fixed stud carrier and later samples featured a mobile stud carrier. This movement is manual wind and includes a sweep second function. The manual wind movement is 23.4 mm in diameter, has 17 jewels, a frequency of 18,000 vph and a power reserve of 40 hours. Other Roamer hand-winding movements seen in the Popular range include the MST 372, MST 405, MST 405 and MST 413. I am yet to see an automatic version in the Roamer Popular range.

The MST 371 movement went through several variations in the shock-resist design, from plain, shock-resist (SR), super-shock-resist (SSR I) and Incabloc. The shock-resist and super-shock-resist are likely to be in-house or generic shock protection systems. The image above doesn’t show the “lyre-shaped” spring expected for Incabloc. The best guess here is that it is the shock protection is super-shock-resist (SSR I).

Case and dial

Measuring 32mm in width (excluding the crown) and 32mm in height (excluding the lugs), this watch is compact by modern standards. However, was perfectly in line with the style preferences of the 1950s. During this time, smaller, more discreet watches were considered fashionable, particularly for gentlemen.

The case is gold-plated, adding a touch of luxury, while the screw-on stainless steel back ensures durability. Gold-plating during this period was typically 20 microns thick. However, like many gold-plated watches from this period, the plating on the case, particularly the back near the lugs, has worn over time, exposing the underlying metal. While this wear might be considered a flaw to some, it adds character and history to the watch. This makes it desirable to collectors who appreciate the patina of age.

The stainless steel back of the watch is marked “water protected,” which was a common feature for watches of the time. However, given the age of the watch, it is advisable to avoid exposing it to water or moisture, as the seals and gaskets may no longer offer the same level of protection as when the watch was new.

The dial of this particular Roamer Popular remains in its original finish, which is a desirable feature for vintage watches. The original hands, along with the seconds sweep featuring a red pointer tip, are also intact. Vintage enthusiasts often seek out timepieces with original parts, as these retain more value than those with replacement components.

Conclusion

This 1950s Roamer Popular wristwatch is a classic example of mid-century mid-range Swiss watchmaking. With its elegant design, durable construction, and reliable MST 371 movement, this watch represents the perfect blend of form and function. For collectors of vintage timepieces, the Roamer Popular offers a glimpse into a time when wristwatches were as much about craftsmanship as they were about style. As tempting as it was, I couldn’t enough information about the Popular brand to justify a purchase. It seems to have existed until the 1960s, before disappearing from the market. The Roamer company re-emerged in the early 2000s, but the Popular brand has not been resurrected. Maybe it wasn’t so popular after all?