West End Matchless wristwatch, 1940s

Last Updated on November 23, 2024 by Jason

In this post, we take a look at an interesting brand of Swiss-made watches that are better known on the sub-continent than in Europe, the West End Watch Company. In this instance, we are looking at a West End Watch Company “Matchless” wristwatch dating from the 1940s. This post was inspired by a question from a fellow watch enthusiast who was the proud owner of this West End Matchless wristwatch. I offered to do some research on the background of the company and the brand. Here is what I have found after many hours of research.

The West End Watch Company history

The West End Watch Company was established in 1886 in Switzerland by Alcide Droz and Arnold Amstutz. The company was one of the earliest Swiss watchmakers to export its products on a global scale, particularly focusing on the Indian market. The name is believed to have been the invention of Arnold Charpié who was the Bombay representative of the Alcide Droz & Sons firm. He was apparently inspired by the West End of London and the name was supposed to give the watches a distinctly ‘imperial feel’.

Headquartered in Bombay, India, the West End Watch Company did not manufacture watches. It bought watches branded with the West End name from Swiss watch manufacturers and sold them on the sub-continent. Over the decades, West End gained a reputation for robust and reliable wristwatches, becoming especially popular with British officers and civilians in India during the British Raj. By the early 20th century, West End watches were frequently associated with precision, durability, and affordability, making them highly sought after in regions where reliability was crucial due to harsh environmental conditions.

West End Matchless model

The Matchless model was introduced in the 1920s and was produced until the 1950s. It was a robust watch targeted at the general public, particularly professionals and the growing middle class in colonial territories. The Matchless appealed to railway workers, clerks, and others requiring an affordable timepiece that could withstand daily wear and tear. It was marketed as a “matchless” example of affordability and precision, making it a popular choice in both urban and rural areas of British India.

Vintage Matchless wristwatch, 1940s

This Matchless wristwatch measures 32.5mm in diameter, excluding the crown. It is a fairly standard size for men’s watches during the 1940s. While this might seem small compared to today’s standards for men’s wristwatches, during the 1940s, this size was considered elegant and appropriate for daily wear. The case, constructed from nickel, was originally chromium-plated, though this plating has worn away with time.

The case back, stamped “Everbright,” is an early form of stainless steel that West End began using in the 1930s. This material, resistant to corrosion, was a significant innovation, offering a more durable alternative to earlier case materials that were prone to tarnishing or rusting.

The dial is signed “West End, Matchless”, with “Swiss made” beneath the outer minute markers at 6 o’clock. The dial itself has aged gracefully, with only a faint hairline crack between the 11 and 12 o’clock positions. This is barely noticeable to the naked eye. The original blued steel hands provide a striking contrast to the dial and enhance the readability of the watch. The hands are in the spade and whip style that was common in the Art Deco period. Their usage remained popular into the 1930s and 1940s

Revue/Vertex calibre 59

The Swiss made Revue 59 calibre is a manual wind mechanical movement with a sub seconds function. It features an optional Breguet hairspring, offering enhanced accuracy and stability. The movement has 15 jewels, a frequency of 18,600 vph and a power reserve of 30 hours. The basic model, such as this example, was not shock protected. However, most later variants had Incabloc shock protection as standard. This movement was commonly used in watches produced from 1937 to 1945. This particular movement was used in the Vertex “Dirty Dozen” watch supplied to the British War Department.

Summary

This West End Matchless wristwatch from the 1940s is a fine example of mid-century Swiss watchmaking. Featuring a reliable Revue calibre 59 movement, original blued steel hands, and an Everbright stainless steel case back, this watch represents a time when craftsmanship and practicality were important. This coupled with the interesting history of West End watches on the sub-continent makes this Matchless wristwatch appealing to vintage watch collectors.