Vintage watch date complications

A watch complication, by definition, is any function of a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping time. One of the most common complications on modern watches is the Date function, which is a display of the date via a numbered disk. Typically, this is displayed via a small aperture or window at the 3 o’clock position. In this post, we will explore the history behind vintage watch date complications.

Vintage Longines Admiral 5 star with a date complication.
Vintage Longines Admiral 5 star with a date complication.

Date complications

In addition to the date function, some watches feature a Day-Date complication, which displays not only the date but also the day of the week. Like the date complication, the day and date are shown through small windows on the watch’s dial. These windows can be positioned in various locations, such as at 12 o’clock or 3 o’clock.

A Triple Calendar complication enhances the day-date function by also including the month of the year. This means the day, date, and month are all visible through separate windows on the dial. However, a triple calendar requires manual adjustment at the end of months with varying lengths.

An Annual Calendar complication similarly displays the day, date, and month, just like a triple calendar. The key difference is that an annual calendar automatically adjusts the date to account for months with 30 or 31 days. The only manual adjustment required is at the end of February.

For ultimate convenience, a Perpetual Calendar complication goes a step further. It not only accounts for the varying lengths of months but also adjusts for leap years. A watch with a perpetual calendar is an excellent choice for those seeking a low-maintenance timepiece, as it won’t require calendar adjustments until the year 2100 (Date complications at Worn & Wound).

A. Hammerly?

Supposedly, the first patents for a Date complication were filed by Swiss watchmaker A. Hammerly in 1915. I say “supposedly” because, despite the name and patents being reported on dozens of websites, I cannot find a source which lists the patent numbers. The name Hammerly isn’t listed in Mikrolisk, the horological trade mark index. Apparently, Hammerly submitted two date designs. The first was a pointer display, with a hand pointing to a specific date on the outer dial. The second took the form of the date being displayed through a window on the dial. In both instances, the date needed to be manually adjusted on a daily basis (Calendar watches at The Watch Collectors Club).

Mimo

The first wristwatch to incorporate a self-setting date window was created by Mimo (Manufacture Internationale de Montres en Or). This wristwatch was the Mimo-Meter, first released in 1930, and it incorporated a small date window at the 3 o’clock position. Interestingly, the owner of Mimo, Otto Graef, purchased the failing Girard-Perregaux brand in the 1930s. Otto Graef was a watchmaker of German origins who lived and worked in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. In the 1950s, the third generation of the Graef’s family took over management. They managed to revive the Girard-Perregaux brand to such an extent that soon after, the Mimo name disappeared (Complication: Date at Fratello).  

Oris Pointer Date

In 1938, Oris introduced a pilot’s watch with a pointer date function. This type of date display uses a centre-mounted hand that moves around the dial in daily increments to point to the current date on a numerical scale (1-31), usually marked on the outer dial. The Big Crown Pointer Date has been in continuous production since 1938 and is Oris’s longest-serving design. The “Big Crown” was a feature of pilot’s watches that allowed the watch to be wound and set when wearing pilots’ gloves.

Oris Big Crown with Pointer Date. Photo: Oris.

Rolex

In 1945, Rolex introduced the Rolex Datejust, marketing it as the first wristwatch with a self-changing date. In the years that followed, Rolex introduced its ‘Cyclops’ date magnifier. This feature enhanced the date aperture, making it easier to read. Patented in the early 1950s and introduced on the Datejust in 1953, the Cyclops magnifier remains a Rolex signature feature. Further improvements came in 1955, with the date change occurring instantaneously at midnight as opposed to the slow changeover that occurred in the original Datejust model. In 1956, the Rolex Day-Date, often referred to as the “President” watch, was released. It was the first wristwatch to display both the full day of the week and the date on the dial (Rolex at Grail Watch Wiki).

Vintage Rolex Submariner with a date complication.
Vintage Rolex Submariner with a date complication.

Tissot

First launched in 1953 to celebrate Tissot’s centenary, the Visodate was one of the earliest watches to incorporate a date display into its automatic mechanism. The Visodate was the first automatic watch to feature a date window that instantaneously changed at midnight. According to Mikrolisk, the Visodate trademark was registered by Tissot in 1954.

Vintage Tissot Visodate.
Vintage Tissot Visodate.

How does it work?

The days of the week and dates of the month are displayed on two rotating discs located beneath the watch face. The day/dates automatically advance at midnight. These can typically be adjusted by turning the crown in one direction to change the day and in the opposite direction to change the date. Alternatively, some watches use a small indented button on the side, which can be operated with a stylus for adjustments. However, most watches require manual correction at the end of months with fewer than 31 days, such as February or 30-day months, to ensure that the date remains accurate (Self-changing date at Watchfinder).

Related content

Complications (Horology) at Wikipedia.

(A Brief History of Date Windows at Goldammer).

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