Last Updated on February 2, 2025 by Jason
It’s hard to have a conversation about watches without mentioning Rolex. Few brands in the world, let alone in the world of horology, are as instantly recognisable. Rolex represents precision, durability, and timeless design. Over the years, it has built an unrivalled reputation for producing some of the finest watches in the industry. Despite its deep connection to Switzerland, Rolex’s origins can be traced back to England in the early 20th century.
Wilsdorf & Davis
Rolex began as Wilsdorf & Davis, founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis. Their primary business involved importing high-quality Swiss movements and placing them in British-made cases. These watches were then sold to jewellers, who often put their own branding on the dials. The earliest watches from Wilsdorf & Davis were hallmarked “W&D” inside the case backs.
At the time, wristwatches, often referred to as “wristlets”, were considered a novelty, even impractical. Pocket watches dominated the market, particularly for men. Many believed wristwatches were too delicate and unreliable. But Wilsdorf saw their potential and was determined to prove they could be just as precise and robust as pocket watches. While Wilsdorf & Davis initially focused on wristwatches, they also produced pocket watches of exceptional quality. Their goal was simple: to provide high-quality timepieces at affordable prices.
The birth of Rolex
By 1908, Wilsdorf wanted a strong brand name—something short, memorable, and easy to pronounce in any language. There are a few stories about how he came up with Rolex. According to one account, he was on the top deck of a horse-drawn bus in London when inspiration struck—he claimed a genie whispered the name in his ear. Another theory suggests Rolex was derived from the French phrase horlogerie exquise, meaning “hoROLogical EXcellence”.
Regardless of its origin, the name was officially registered in 1908, marking the beginning of a new chapter for the company. By 1915, Wilsdorf & Davis had formally changed its name to Rolex Watch Co. Ltd. Some believe this change was, in part, to avoid anti-German sentiment in Britain during the First World War.
Wristwatches
The First World War transformed the perception of wristwatches. Soldiers in the trenches found pocket watches impractical—digging through a tunic to check the time was cumbersome and often dangerous. Many began modifying pocket watches by soldering lugs onto them, allowing a strap to be attached.
Manufacturers, including Rolex, quickly recognised the need for dedicated wristwatches designed for durability and ease of use. By the time the war ended, wristwatches had shed their reputation as a fashion accessory for women and were now seen as a practical, even essential, tool for men. Rolex was at the forefront of this shift, producing trench watches designed to withstand the rigours of wartime conditions.
Switzerland
In 1919, Rolex left England and relocated to Geneva, Switzerland. This move was largely due to economic pressures. The British government had imposed heavy post-war taxes on luxury imports, including Swiss watch movements. Additionally, export duties on gold and silver used in watch cases made production in England increasingly expensive.
Switzerland, already a hub for fine watchmaking, offered a more favourable environment. Rolex officially became Montres Rolex S.A. in 1920. Around this time, Wilsdorf bought out Davis’ share of the business, taking full control. This marked the beginning of Rolex’s rise as a leading name in Swiss watchmaking.
The RolexlLogo: A Crown for Every Achievement
In 1925, Wilsdorf trademarked the now-iconic Rolex logo—a golden five-pointed crown above the word Rolex, written in green with a gold outline. This emblem symbolises excellence, precision, and achievement. The slogan “A Crown for Every Achievement” reinforced the brand’s identity as a maker of watches for those who reached the pinnacle of success in their fields. Over the years, Rolex would become synonymous with explorers, athletes, and pioneers who pushed the boundaries of human endeavour.

Aegler SA
A crucial part of Rolex’s success came from its long-standing partnership with Aegler SA, a movement manufacturer based in Bienne/Biel. Founded in 1878 by Johann Aegler, the company specialised in making small, precise movements—originally for ladies’ pendant watches. These movements turned out to be the perfect size for Wilsdorf’s wristwatches.
In 1905, Aegler began supplying movements to Wilsdorf & Davis. By 1908, as Rolex branding became established, Wilsdorf asked Aegler to increase production. The two companies formed a close working relationship, with Rolex even taking an ownership stake in Aegler. This partnership lasted for nearly a century, culminating in Rolex’s acquisition of Aegler in 2004.
Rolex sub-brands
Wilsdorf knew that not everyone could afford a Rolex, but he didn’t want to compromise on quality. To reach a wider market, he created several sub-brands that offered high-quality watches at lower prices.
These watches used excellent movements from manufacturers such as The General Watch Company, rather than Rolex’s usual supplier, Aegler. Brand names included Falcon, Genex, Lexis, Hofex, Unicorn, Rolexis, Rolwatco, and Marconi. These watches were not sold through Rolex’s authorised dealers, nor did they carry the Rolex name.
However, this strategy had unintended consequences. Many customers still associated these watches with Rolex, and their popularity began to compete with the main brand. In 1926, Wilsdorf refined his approach with the launch of Tudor. Unlike previous sub-brands, Tudor was positioned as an official Rolex product, offering high quality at a more accessible price point. Tudor was a success, and the brand continues to thrive today as a respected luxury watchmaker in its own right.
Related content
Hans Wilsdorf at Wikipedia.