Last Updated on July 19, 2025 by Jason
What is a watch bezel? A watch bezel is the ring that surrounds the watch’s face and holds the crystal in place. Bezels come in different materials, colours, and styles. It is generally the outermost component of a watch face. They can serve both decorative and functional purposes, depending on the type of watch. Functionally, many watch bezels feature scales or markings. These include tachymeters (for measuring speed), a GMT scale (for tracking multiple time zones), dive time markings, or even a slide rule for calculations. There are different types of bezels that are found on vintage watches. In this post, we will look at those bezels that are most common in the vintage watch world.
Watch bezels come in three main types: fixed, rotating, and sliding. Fixed bezels, commonly found on dress watches, remain stationary. Rotating bezels, unidirectional or bidirectional, rotate around the dial. These can be used to measure intervals of time, making them popular on dive watches. Sliding bezels, the least common type, slide along the watch case. These are primarily used on chronograph watches for measuring elapsed time.
Rotating bezels are all about interaction and functionality. They can turn on the watch’s axis, allowing for the tracking of elapsed time or the performance of specific calculations, like a countdown timer or a dual-time (GMT) display.
- Unidirectional rotating bezels are a mainstay on divers’ watches. They rotate in one direction, counterclockwise, so if they are accidentally moved, they only shorten the dive time, adding a layer of safety.
- Bidirectional rotating bezels are versatile, able to move both ways, serving pilots and travellers as they calculate time differences or perform navigational computations.
Types of bezel
Fixed Bezels are the steadfast constants of the watch world. Often boasting a simple elegance, they serve the watch in visual appeal more than utility. However, as we are about to see, there are a number of other types of bezels that may find their way into a vintage watch collection. There are far more than I expected when I began researching this post. The majority of vintage watches that have passed through my hands have had a smooth or plain bezel. In alphabetical order, the different bezel types are:
Bark bezel
A bark bezel is a textured watch bezel that resembles tree bark. Rolex used this finish on some of their watches from the 1970s to the 1980s, often on the bezel and centre links of the bracelet. This bezel finish is typically found on vintage watches crafted from precious metals. They feature a rough texture that resembles the ridges of tree bark
The dive bezel
A dive watch bezel is a rotating bezel specifically designed to help divers keep track of how long they have been underwater. This is critical for managing air supply and avoiding decompression issues. Dive watch bezels typically feature a 60-minute scale. These are marked in increments for each minute, with larger markers every 5 or 10 minutes for easy readability. The advantage of timing with a dive bezel is that it can be operated even with gloves. Additionally, it does not affect the water-resistance like the pushers of a chronograph would.
The first mentioned example of a dive bezel was Rolex’s Zero-Graph from the 1930s. However, the design did not enter the mass market until the early 1950s when Rolex, Blancpain and Zodiac all released watches with rotational dive bezels. Since then, the dive bezel has only increased in popularity. Rotating dive watch bezels allowed scuba divers to track their total time spent underwater. The bezel was a reminder to prevent divers from exceeding their diving time limit with limited oxygen (Dive watch bezels at Bremont).
Unidirectional rotating bezel for safety
Although dive watches were made with bidirectional bezels (bezels that rotate in either direction, they have been standardised as unidirectional since the 1950s. The unidirectional rotating bezel is a crucial design element of dive watches. A unidirectional bezel only rotates counter-clockwise, which is a safety mechanism for divers. If the bezel is inadvertently moved underwater, it would only shorten the remaining dive time instead of lengthening it.
The dive bezel originated in the early 1950s when recreational diving was becoming more popular. Rolex and Blancpain introduced some of the first dive watches with rotating bezels. Rolex with its Submariner (1953) and Blancpain with the Fifty Fathoms (1953). These bezels were inspired by the growing need for accurate underwater timing. They were made to endure underwater conditions, with strong luminous markers for visibility in low light.
How a dive watch bezel works
1. Setting the bezel: Before starting the dive, the diver aligns the bezel’s zero marker (usually a triangle or dot at the 12 o’clock position) with the minute hand.
2. Tracking time underwater: As time passes, the minute hand moves along the bezel, showing how many minutes have elapsed since the start of the dive.
3. Unidirectional rotation: Most dive bezels are unidirectional, meaning they only rotate counterclockwise. This feature ensures that if the bezel is accidentally bumped, it will only show a longer elapsed time. This gives the diver a margin of safety rather than underestimating their time underwater.
The engine turned
An engine-turned watch bezel refers to a bezel that has been decorated with intricate, machine-made patterns. These are created using a process called “engine-turning” or “guilloche”. This technique involves a rotating tool that engraves fine, repetitive designs into the metal surface. This produces a textured, often concentric or spiral pattern. Some resemble a rougher, more mechanical version of a fluted bezel. Others can be distinguished by smaller ridges with thicker, smoother lines that lie directly above the hour markers.
Engine-turned bezels reached the height of their popularity during the mid-20th century, particularly in the 1940s through the 1960s, when watchmakers were exploring new ways to add elegance and texture to their designs. The intricate patterns were especially popular on dress or formal watches. However, as watch designs became more streamlined and minimalist in the 1970s and beyond, the engine-turned bezel started to fall out of favour.
The fluted bezel
A fluted watch bezel is a type of bezel design featuring vertical, grooved lines or “flutes” that run around the circumference of the bezel. These grooves create a ridged effect, giving the bezel a textured, visually striking appearance. The fluted design often offers visual appeal and a functional grip, especially on watches where the bezel needs to be rotated, like Dive or GMT watches. A very common design, traditionally most prominently found on Rolex pieces like the Datejust and Day-Date. Fluted bezels reached peak popularity during the 1950s and 1960s when they were commonly used in luxury dress watches and other high-end timepieces. The distinctive fluting made the watch stand out without being overly flashy, contributing to the design’s appeal. However, as watch trends shifted towards more modern and minimalist designs in the 1970s and beyond, the fluted bezel became less common (Watch bezel guide at Goldammer).
The gem set bezel
A gem-set watch bezel is decorated with gemstones, such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies, or emeralds, set into the metal bezel surrounding the watch dial. These gemstones can be set in various patterns, either entirely around the bezel or in specific intervals, to create a luxurious and eye-catching design.
Gem-set bezels have their roots in jewellery and luxury timepieces from the 19th century. The practice of setting precious stones into watches became more common in the early 20th century as the luxury watch market expanded.
However, as watch trends evolved, the demand for gem-set bezels waned somewhat in the 1970s and 1980s, especially with the rise of more minimalist and functional watch designs. Nonetheless, gem-set bezels never fully disappeared and are still present in the high-end luxury watch market today, along with, sadly, Fashion watches. Of all the vintage watch bezels, this has to be my least favourite, there is too much going on.
The GMT bezel
A GMT watch bezel is a bezel specifically designed to help track multiple time zones, typically featuring a 24-hour scale. When paired with a GMT hand (which makes one full rotation every 24 hours), the bezel allows the wearer to monitor an additional time zone. This is achieved by aligning the GMT hand with the bezel’s hour markers. GMT bezels are commonly either fixed or rotating. A fixed bezel simply shows the 24-hour scale, while a rotating bezel can be adjusted to quickly set an additional time zone (GMT bezel at Hodinkee).
GMT watches first appeared in the 1950s. This was largely due to the needs of commercial pilots who needed to keep track of multiple time zones. The Rolex GMT-Master, launched in 1954, is considered the first GMT watch. It was developed in collaboration with Pan American World Airways (Pan Am) for their transatlantic pilots. GMT watches became increasingly popular during the 1960s and 1970s as international travel expanded. Their practical utility for travellers, pilots, and businesspeople made them a favoured choice, especially as global business and tourism grew.
The slide rule bezel
The slide rule bezel, originally designed for aviation purposes. It operates using two logarithmic scales, one on the bezel and another on the inner dial or the edge of the watch face. By rotating these scales against each other, you can perform functions like multiplication, division, conversion of units, and time-speed-distance calculations. The scales interact by aligning specific numbers on the outer bezel with corresponding numbers on the inner scale to yield results based on where they meet.
A slide rule bezel offers a range of practical applications. It allows users to perform quick multiplications and divisions by aligning numbers on the bezel. This makes it useful for calculating totals or dividing resources. It also assists with unit conversions, such as miles to kilometres or pounds to kilograms, by aligning known conversion factors. Additionally, the bezel allows for speed and distance calculations. This helps determine travel time, distance, or fuel needs, which is valuable in both aviation and automotive contexts (Slide rule bezel at Oracle Time).
Pilots especially benefit from the slide rule bezel for estimating fuel consumption over specific distances or speeds. It can also be used for currency exchange calculations by setting exchange rates on the bezel. Although digital devices have largely replaced these functions, the slide rule bezel remains a versatile and distinctive tool for collectors familiar with its operation.
The smooth bezel
A smooth or plain watch bezel is a bezel style with a flat, unadorned surface, often without any markings, ridges, or steps. This simple, streamlined design emphasises the watch dial itself rather than drawing attention to the bezel. Smooth bezels are often polished or brushed. This creates a refined, minimalist look that fits well with both dress and casual watches.
Smooth bezels date back to some of the earliest wristwatches in the early 20th century. At this point, watch designs were typically understated and focused on simplicity. By the 1920s and 1930s, smooth bezels were standard on many watches, as styles of the era often favoured clean lines and elegance.
Smooth bezels reached peak popularity in the mid-20th century, particularly in the 1950s and 1960s. This was a golden era for dress watches, and the plain bezel became a hallmark of sophistication and elegance.
The stepped bezel
A stepped watch bezel is a design featuring one or more “steps” or distinct levels. This creates a tiered effect around the watch face. Instead of a smooth or single-level bezel, a stepped bezel has multiple layers or ridges. These work together to give the watch a more intricate and structured look.
The layers add visual depth, giving the watch a more complex and refined appearance. This design can create light and shadow contrasts, making the watch face stand out and enhancing its overall elegance. As a result, it is often found on dress watches. It can also have a functional purpose, where the stepped bezel allows for easier manipulation. This is especially useful on watches where the bezel rotates, like dive watches. Stepped bezels can often be found on vintage watches, where they gained popularity in the 1930s and 1940s. This period saw many Art Deco influences, and the stepped bezel’s tiered, geometric design fit well with the elegance of the era.
The tachymeter bezel
A tachymeter on a watch is a scale typically engraved around the bezel or printed on the outer edge of the watch dial. It is used to measure the speed or the rate of an event over a fixed distance, based on the time it takes to travel that distance. By timing an event using the watch’s chronograph (stopwatch) function, the tachymeter scale can convert elapsed time (in seconds) into a rate, such as miles or kilometres per hour.
There are different types of tachymeter scales. A regular tachymeter measures how fast you’re going, like miles per hour. A telemeter measures the distance of something you see and hear, like lightning and thunder. A pulsometer can measure your heart rate, and a decimeter splits time into 100 parts to make it easier to measure smaller segments. The tachymeter makes it simple to turn time into other measurements without needing to do complicated calculations (Tachymeter bezel at SwissWatchExpo).
Tachymeters are primarily used to measure speed. However, they can also be used to calculate any rate per hour, such as units produced in a factory. This feature has made tachymeters popular on racing and sports watches. This adds a functional and sporty appeal to these types of tool watches.
Omega Speedmaster
The most iconic vintage watch to feature a tachymeter must be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Originally produced in 1957 with reference CK2915, it was designed as a sports chronograph for motorsport and other sporting events. It was the first watch to feature a tachymeter on the bezel as opposed to the dial. Placing it on the bezel freed up space, giving a cleaner, more streamlined appearance that became extremely popular. Consolidating the Speedmaster’s legacy was its role in the space race. In particular, the 1969 Apollo moon landing, when Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin took the Speedmaster to the moon. This event made the watch a household name (The first Speedmaster in space at Omega).
How to use a tachymeter bezel
1. Locate the tachymeter scale on your watch bezel. It will be a series of numbers marked in small increments around the bezel.
2. Identify the starting point, which is typically a number aligned with the stationary marker on the watch dial.
3. Activate the stopwatch function on your watch.
4. Begin timing from your chosen starting point.
5. Once you’ve completed the measured distance or time, stop the stopwatch function.
6. Note the number on the tachymeter scale that aligns with the second hand; this indicates your average speed.
Summary
There were far more vintage watch bezels than I expected. I also doubt that this is an exhaustive list. At some point, I will need to add to this page. However, I hope this has been of use to some collectors in explaining the features and functions of vintage watch bezels.
Related content
Tachymeter at Wikipedia.
Leave a Reply