Vintage watch maintenance

Last Updated on September 13, 2025 by Jason

Vintage watches are amazing little time machines. They’re built with skill and care, and they can last a lifetime if you take good care of them. However, keeping these mechanical masterpieces in great shape means regular maintenance (How to care for a vintage watch at Gear Patrol). Experts say you should get your vintage watch serviced every few years. So, what does that involve?

What happens during a watch service?

When you send in a mechanical watch for servicing, a lot happens behind the scenes. It’s a detailed process, and every step matters to keep your watch running smoothly.

Step 1: Taking it apart

The first thing the watchmaker does is carefully take the watch apart. Every tiny piece is removed, and they check each one for damage, wear, or rust. These pieces are fragile, so it takes a steady hand and lots of experience to do it right.

Step 2: Cleaning

Next, all the parts are cleaned. Typically, the cleaning is done via an ultrasonic cleaning machine, which cycles through multiple stages using cleaning solutions before drying. The machine uses ultrasound to agitate the solutions. These vibrations generate strong forces that break apart contaminants like dust, dirt, rust, or other debris. Every piece has to be spotless so nothing interferes with how the watch works (How to clean your watch at Hodinkee).

Step 3: Checking for damage

Once everything is clean, the watchmaker will inspect the parts under magnification. They’re looking for tiny flaws, things like worn pivots, bent teeth, or cracked jewels. If something’s not right, they replace it. Be specific about replacement parts. If keeping original parts is important to you, mention this upfront and get it in writing. Also, be clear about the source of replacement parts. Always specify if they should be from the original manufacturer or generic. Confirm that they’ve noted your request.

Step 4: Lubricating the moving parts

The moving parts need to be lubricated with special oils and greases. This keeps them running smoothly and helps prevent wear and tear. Skipping this step would shorten the life of your watch (Lubrication at Oracle Time).

Step 5: Reassembly

Next, the watch is reassembled. Every piece is put back in its place, and the watchmaker adjusts everything to make sure it works perfectly. They focus on timing, making sure the balance spring and escapement are fine-tuned so the watch keeps accurate time.

Step 6: Testing

After reassembly, the watch gets tested. The watchmaker will check its accuracy, power reserve, water resistance, and any other features your watch has. It’s monitored closely over several days to make sure everything is working as it should.

Step 7: Polishing

Sometimes, the case and bracelet are polished to make the watch look new again. This can have an effect on the value of the watch, as originality is important to most vintage watch collectors. If your vintage watch is considered an investment or something that you may sell (to buy another vintage watch, of course), polishing is probably a bad idea. Make the level of polishing you require very clear when you hand your watch to the watchmaker for servicing. Polishing does remove traces of the metal and cannot be undone. Remember, the decades of patina, which adds character to your watch, will be removed permanently with polishing (Why polishing an old watch will ruin its value at GQ).

How often should you service a vintage watch?

Servicing a vintage watch depends on how often you wear it and its overall condition. A good rule of thumb is every 3 to 5 years if you wear it regularly. This keeps the internal mechanisms lubricated and working properly, preventing long-term damage. If you wear your vintage watch only for special occasions, you might stretch the interval to every 5 to 7 years. Even if it’s only running occasionally, the lubricants inside can dry out over time, and parts might wear down unnoticed.

According to The Watch Collectors Club, these signs indicate that your vintage watch needs attention sooner:

It’s running too fast or too slow.
The crown feels stiff or gritty when you wind it.
You hear unusual noises when it’s running.
The power reserve is shorter than usual.

Why regular servicing matters

Mechanical watches are all about precision. Over time, dirt and wear can throw things off. Servicing keeps your watch accurate, reliable, and ready to stand the test of time. Think of it like taking your car in for an oil change. It’s just what you do to keep it running smoothly. Regular vintage watch maintenance, including servicing, means it’ll be there for you, looking great and working perfectly, for years to come.