Last Updated on October 27, 2024 by Jason
Gay Frères was founded in 1835 in Geneva by Jean-Pierre Gay and Gaspard Tissot (no, not that Tissot). Despite the name (Frères is French for brothers), they weren’t related, but the business remained a strong family concern throughout its lifetime. In fact, during the 1970s, it was still being run by descendants of Jean-Pierre, brothers Jacques-Hubert and Jean-Francois Gay. Originally, Gay Frères specialised in the production of handmade, gold chains for use with pocket watch chains and jewellery. In particular, they were known as a chainiste, a French word for a manufacturer of chains for pocket watches. Their expertise in crafting intricate chains and cuffs was further enhanced by exceptional skills in gem setting. In addition, they worked with elaborate materials such as ebony, ivory, and enamel. Those items produced during the Art Déco period were particularly appreciated for the artistic and productive expertise the manufacturer put into them.
However, with the advent of the wristwatch and its increasing popularity during the early 20th century, Gay Frères had to adapt and learn to make watch bracelets as well. They excelled in this craft, becoming one of the most renowned metalworkers of their time. They were especially known for their work with stainless steel, which was far more challenging to manipulate than precious metals. Rolex was one of their early clients, for whom Gay Frères produced bracelets in stainless steel, gold, and platinum. They offered a wide variety of bracelet styles and sizes. They were known for their inventive, original designs and by the 1940’s was supplying prestigious watchmakers such as Patek Philippe, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet and Jaeger LeCoultre. The Gay Frères bracelets were characterised by the logo inside the clasp, with the initials G and F and, between them, a chamois head.
The Bonklip bracelet
By the early 20th century, Gay Frères had firmly established itself as a leader in metal bracelet manufacturing in Geneva. Although Gay Frères did not invent the Bonklip bracelet, it became well-known for producing and supplying large quantities of this design to Rolex from the 1930s onwards. The Bonklip was not technically challenging to manufacture. However, its versatility and durability made it highly suitable for a range of uses, especially for tool watches intended for military service.
The Bonklip, a self-adjusting bracelet, was originally invented in 1929 by Walter Klementz in New Jersey, USA. The Klementz design saw limited commercial success. However, a similar version was produced by B.H. Britton & Sons in Birmingham, England, beginning in the 1930s. The exact origin of the “Bonklip” name remains unclear. The British Ministry of Defence issued Bonklip bracelets to the Royal Air Force crews in the 1950s and ’60s. The Bonklip bracelet was known for its flat, ladder-like design and simple adjustment mechanism, it was often favoured for its practicality and lightweight construction.
Oyster bracelet
The Bonklip bracelet can be considered an early influence on the development of the Oyster bracelet, which Gay Frères designed in collaboration with Rolex. Today, the Oyster bracelet remains one of the most iconic and enduring creations of both brands. Known for its robust three-link design with broad, flat links, the Oyster bracelet provides durability and a solid feel. This makes it a perfect match for Rolex’s sports models such as the Submariner, Explorer, and Daytona.
Beyond Rolex, Gay Frères crafted bracelets for several other prestigious brands, including Patek Philippe, Omega, and Heuer. All of them relied on Gay Frères for innovative bracelet designs. Another lasting design from Gay Frères is the renowned Zenith “Ladder” bracelet, which famously complemented Zenith’s El Primero models.
Beads of Rice
While the development of the Oyster bracelet was significant, Gay Frères’s most renowned creation is perhaps the iconic “beads-of-rice” bracelet. Known for its intricate craftsmanship and timeless appeal, this design was widely adopted by prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Omega also extensively used the beads-of-rice bracelet in the 1950s and 60s, notably on its Seamaster and Constellation models.
The defining characteristic of the beads-of-rice bracelet is its central row of small, tightly-packed, rounded links, resembling grains of rice, bordered by larger outer links. These polished, compact links offer exceptional flexibility. This allows the bracelet to conform smoothly to the wrist, providing a lightweight yet luxurious feel. Today, this bracelet remains a favourite among watch collectors for its comfort, classic aesthetic, and strong association with vintage luxury.
Other notable Gay Frères bracelets
The Jubilee bracelet was created in 1945 for the Rolex Datejust. The Jubilee features a five-link construction with smaller central links. This offered a more refined and elegant appearance compared to Rolex’s sportier Oyster bracelet. It provides a great balance of comfort and flexibility. Gay Frères developed the Ladder bracelet for Zenith in the 1960s, particularly for the El Primero models. The Ladder bracelet features open spaces between the central links, resembling a ladder-like structure. This unique design not only enhances flexibility, but also lightens the weight of the bracelet. The President bracelet was developed for the Rolex Day-Date in 1956. Gay Frères was involved in producing many of its iterations over time. The President bracelet has a three-link design similar to the Oyster. However, the rounded, smaller central links, provided a more formal and luxurious look.
1970s expansion and legacy
By the 1970s, Gay Frères, still a family-owned business, had grown to operate the largest factory in Geneva, employing over 500 skilled craftsmen. In addition to producing watch components, they expanded into designing and crafting jewellery. Their range included chain necklaces and bracelets in diverse styles, along with torques, cuffs, and rings. These often featured motifs like leopard, tiger, and stallion heads. They worked not only with precious metals, often adorned with diamonds and gemstones, but also incorporated organic materials such as tortoiseshell, ebony, and ivory. Pieces were crafted using techniques like enamelling, with a variety of gold finishes and textures applied. Many pieces required collaboration among multiple craftsmen, each bringing their specific expertise, resulting in highly detailed, finely finished pieces. Vintage advertisements and catalogues from the 1960s and 70s showcase some of their most inventive designs.
The company has exhibited at prestigious trade fairs in Switzerland and internationally, including the Basel show, and has built a robust reputation and diverse client base. Gay Frères eventually expanded to four factories, including locations in Lyon and Hanoi. These supplied clients from luxury Parisian houses like Van Cleef & Arpels and Hermès to mass-market jewellery retailers. After working together for decades Rolex acquired Gay Frères in 1998.
Gay Frères’ craftsmanship was instrumental in shaping the aesthetics of many luxury timepieces from the mid-20th century, and their contributions to the design of watch bracelets remain influential today.