Do you own a collection of vintage automatic watches? If so, you might be wondering if you need a watch winder. It’s a question that is regularly asked in the world of watch collecting, particularly by those new to the hobby. One option may be to invest in a watch winder that can keep your automatic watches running whilst not on your wrist. That way, your vintage timepiece is always ready to wear.
What is a watch winder?
A watch winder is a device that keeps your automatic watch running by gently rotating it when it’s not on your wrist. Automatic watches are built to wind themselves through the natural motion of wearing them. A watch winder mimics this motion, maintaining the watch’s power reserve so it stays wound and running smoothly. If an automatic watch isn’t worn regularly, it will eventually stop as the power reserve depletes, requiring you to wind it and reset the time and date when you wear it again. If you use a watch winder, your vintage automatic watch stays ready to wear without the need for resetting.
Watch winders have varying capacities, ranging from a single watch to as many as eight. Good quality watch winders have programmable settings that will deliver only the exact number of turns required for your watch, eliminating the possibility of damaging the mainspring. The programable settings will also include time settings, turns per day (TPD) and directions, clockwise, counter-clockwise, or bi-directional.
Budget watch winders tend to be made of cheap materials, such as plastic or fake wood. They lack the programable functions and often use cheap electric motors. These motors consume a relatively large amount of power, are often noisy and are not particularly durable. If you think of your vintage watch as a treasured heirloom or as a potential investment, you don’t want to risk using a substandard watch winder.
Do I need a watch winder?
The short answer is no. If your watch has stopped running simply wind it, set it and wear it. If you own multiple automatic watches that you don’t wear regularly, a watch winder can be very useful. It keeps your watches running, saving you the time and effort of manual winding and resetting. Additionally, a watch winder offers a controlled storage environment, protecting your watches from dust, reducing the risk of damage from handling, and keeping them in ready-to-wear condition.
On the other hand, if you have just one automatic watch that you wear daily, a watch winder may not be necessary. The movement from regular wear will keep it wound, so a watch box or case for safe storage might be a more practical and cost-effective choice.
The arguments, for and against watch winders
In discussing the benefits and drawbacks of using a watch winder for vintage automatic watches, opinions vary widely. This reflects different priorities in terms of wear, maintenance, and convenience. Here’s a summary of the key arguments from these perspectives:
Avoiding continuous wear and tear
One argument is that watch winders may contribute to unnecessary wear by continuously running a watch even when it’s not in use. This viewpoint suggests that, much like a car, a watch should be at rest when not in active use. Proponents of this view believe that the risk of wear outweighs any potential risk of oil drying out while stationary, as modern oils are resilient enough to protect the watch even when it’s not running.
Quality of lubricants and potential for overuse
Another perspective focuses on the idea that advances in synthetic lubricants have reduced the likelihood of oils drying out in stationary watches. Therefore, letting a watch rest might actually prevent unnecessary wear on winding mechanisms, which can suffer from constant motion. Cheap winders, in particular, have been blamed for premature wear, as continuous motion can put strain on the winding construction. This view emphasises that careful choice and use of winders, especially intermittent rather than constant ones, could mitigate some of these issues.
Scheduled maintenance as a counterpoint to wear
Supporters of watch winders suggest that whether a watch is running or not, it will still require regular servicing every few years to replace aged lubricants. From this angle, using a watch winder doesn’t significantly impact maintenance intervals or wear. A high-quality winder simply replicates the wear rate that would occur with regular use on the wrist.
Convenience and safety for complicated movements
Some watch owners, particularly those with complex watches (e.g., perpetual calendars), appreciate the convenience and safety a watch winder provides. Setting a complicated watch can be time-consuming and increases the risk of damaging intricate setting mechanisms. This view holds that watch winders can be essential for safely maintaining complicated watches in a ready-to-wear state. This offers both convenience and a degree of protection against mishandling.
Summary
In summary, the decision to use a watch winder depends on the owner’s priorities, minimising potential wear (especially if cheap winders are used), trusting regular maintenance to address ageing oils, or prioritising the convenience and safety of setting complicated watches. The trade-offs involve balancing wear and tear against maintenance routines and handling convenience, particularly for vintage or delicate models.
Personally, I am against the use of watch winders. When a watch is running, there’s always the possibility of wear. After all, if you had a vintage car, you wouldn’t leave it running in the garage between classic car rallies. If you have a collection and you rotate through them on a regular basis, it shouldn’t be too inconvenient to occasionally reset the time and wind your watch. Another thing to keep in mind is that mechanical watches, particularly vintage ones, will gain or lose time each day. If a vintage watch has been sitting in a watch winder for weeks, it will almost certainly need to have the time adjusted. I welcome any different opinions in the comments below.
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Barrington Watch Winders, frequently asked questions. Note, Set Back In Time is not associated with Barrington Watch Winders.
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