How to spot a fake vintage Omega

Last Updated on June 16, 2025 by Jason

I have written a lot about Omega over the past year. It has probably become my favourite vintage brand. It’s not quite up there with Rolex or the Holy Trinity of Horology, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron & Constantin. However, Omega introduced the world to the Speedmaster, the Seamaster and the Constellation, which isn’t a bad selection. I like the brand because Omega vintage watches are so robust, keep great time and, most importantly, look good on the wrist. Being at the high end of the market, there is the risk of fakes. In this article, we look at the checks you should be making to spot a fake vintage Omega.

General checks

These are basic checks that should be the beginning of any investigation into the validity of a vintage Omega. By no means is this list exhaustive. Don’t forget to trust your instincts. If there is any doubt, walk away. It is better to spend your money wisely than to waste it on a whim.

Dial

Dial text: Omega never printed “Antimagnetic”, “Incabloc” or jewel counts on vintage dials. Genuine printing is sharp and evenly spaced.

Model names: Names like “Seamaster” or “Constellation” appear only after their launch dates (Seamaster from 1948, Constellation from 1952). A model name on an earlier dial is a red flag.

Logo & fonts: The Ω symbol and “Omega” text on a real watch are clear and precise. Compare with known examples. For example, Constellation script has a dotted ‘i’. Fakes often distort letters and lack a raised star (genuine Constellations have a 3D star emblem). Always compare to known examples of a similar era.

Hands & markers: Check the hand and marker styles align with the era (e.g. broad-arrow hands on early Speedmasters). All lume plots and hands should align and sit flush. Uneven glue or a sub-second dial (absent on most early Constellation models) suggests a fake.

Crystal & crown: There is some debate as to when Omega started using signed crystals and crowns. Some sources suggest it dates from 1945 onward, and others say it is sometime between 1948 and 1950. Either way, after 1950, Omega signed all crowns (Ω logo) and often signed crystals. An unsigned crown on a mid-century Omega (or vice versa) is suspicious. Genuine crowns match the case shape (e.g. Constellation crowns are 12-sided). Of course, crowns and crystals are, alongside the strap and buckle, the most likely components to be lost or broken and therefore replaced. Simply put, you should examine the crown and crystal, but it’s not a foolproof way of determining authenticity (Crown and Crystal at WaHaWatches).

Case and movement

Caseback: Real Omegas stamp case numbers and logos inside the back. The exterior of a genuine caseback has no maker’s or assay marks. If you see stamps or hallmarks on the outside, treat it as suspect.

Serial numbers: All Omega movements have serial numbers. Use charts or an Omega serial number database to confirm the serial matches the stated production year (e.g. around 9 million for mid-1920s, or 28–29 million for 1969–70). A missing or obviously mismatched serial number is a warning.

Movement: Genuine vintage Omegas use specific calibres (The Mechanism at Second Movement). A real movement usually has an Omega-calibre mark on the plate or bridge. If in doubt, look up the reference in Ranfft or EmmyWatch to verify the correct calibre. Crude or unsigned movements (even if marked “Omega”) are almost certainly fake.

Finish: Authentic movements and cases are finely finished. Fake cases are often cast with soft edges. For example, counterfeit Constellation casebacks often have shallow, poorly engraved text compared to crisp stamped lettering on originals.

Poor quality movements: If the movement has rough finishing, gold plating flaking, or incorrect bridge shapes, it’s likely fake or heavily modified. Even if it’s labelled “Omega”, a sloppy movement (especially in a supposedly high-grade model) is suspicious

Mis-set orbits: Check alignment of bezels and rotating elements (like divers’ bezels). Genuine Omega bezels click firmly (where applicable) and align exactly at marks. A loose or misaligned bezel can suggest a counterfeit.

Is the price too good? Lastly, if a deal seems too good for a rare vintage Omega, it often is. Always verify with reputable online vintage watch marketplaces, such as Chrono24.

1920s – 1930s

Manual-wind movements: Early Omega wristwatches were manual winding. They did not have automatic winding. A claimed 1920s Omega with “Automatic” on the dial is wrong.

Dial text & markings: While Omega watches have had “models” from very early on, they were not labelled as such on the dial. Also, avoid dials that are over-cleaned or redialled (fonts or placements that don’t match period style). Compare with photo archives.

Cases: Many 1920s – 30s Omegas were silver or plated. Check for Swiss hallmarks (e.g. “0.900” for silver) inside the case. Genuine early cases have the Omega stamp and case number inside. An externally stamped hallmark on the caseback is unlikely to be original.

Logo style: The early Omega logo often appears as applied letters or simple print. Fakes may use a modern font or a poorly finished Omega symbol.

1940s

Automatic label: Omega began labelling “Automatic” on dials in the early 1940s. An automatic 1940s watch without this is suspect.

Seamaster debut: The name Seamaster appears on dials only from 1948. An Omega from 1945–47 claiming to be a “Seamaster” is simply a fake. Early Seamaster cases had no seahorse logo on the back. The hippocampus emblem was added only in 1958 (What’s the Story Behind the OMEGA Seahorse Symbol? at Bob’s Watches).

Case hallmarks: During WWII, Omega cases were not marked outside. Many fake 1940s Omegas show stamped logos or hallmarks on the exterior caseback, genuine ones do not. Real gold cases might only have Swiss assay marks on the inside.

Crown: Omega crowns in the 1940s were usually unbranded. A signed crown on a 1940s watch might be a service replacement (or a fake), so verify by shape and fit.

1950s

Constellation series: Launched in 1952 with the observatory logo and star. Authentic Constellations have the star emblem at 6 o’clock raised and three-dimensional. The “Constellation” script should be elegant (notice the dot on ‘i’). Fakes often use flat stars and sloppy lettering. Genuine Constellations use 12-facet crowns and have finely stamped text inside the back. A copy may have a smooth crown and engraved (not stamped) caseback text.

Seamaster era: Seamaster became a water-resistant line in 1948. By the late 1950s, it sported a seahorse (hippocampus) logo on the caseback (first seen in 1958). Early postwar Seamasters (pre-1958) will not have it, which is correct. Check that any seahorse or “Waterproof” marks match Omega style (genuine engravings are crisp).

Dials and lume: Luminous material was radium in this era. Swiss regulations changed ca.1958, so a dial marked “T Swiss T” or “Swiss” indicates tritium (post-1960). A vintage 1950s Omega should not show modern lume if claimed original.

Calibres: Popular 1950s Omega movements include 354/355 (Constellation) and 500-series automatics. Verify that the calibre stamped on the movement matches the model. A glaring mismatch (e.g. cheap FHF or generic movement in a gold Constellation) is a sign of a counterfeit (About Omega Constellation Vintage Calibres at Omega Constellation Collectors).

1960s – 1970s

Speedmaster and chronographs: The Speedmaster (1957) originally had broad-arrow or alpha hands and a flat “Ω” logo. From 1964–67, some models switched to dauphine or later baton hands. A misshapen hour hand or misaligned sub-dials can indicate a fake or a replacement. The tachymeter bezel markings on a real Speedmaster are deeply engraved and perfectly spaced. Fakes often have thin, shallow print. Also, check that “Professional” appears on the dial only for Moonwatch models (post-1965), its absence/presence should match the reference.

Geneve/De Ville: In the mid-1960s, Omega split its line into dress (Geneve, De Ville). Genuine dials for these are minimalistic. Compare any unusual logos or submodels carefully against archives. These models often came in solid 18k or gold-capped cases, so look for appropriate hallmarks (e.g., gold purity stamps on the inside).

Bracelets: Omega bracelets often bear end-link or clasp marks (e.g. Ω logo or Swiss hallmarks). A generic cheap bracelet without Omega marks can accompany a fake watch.

1980s

Modernising styles: Case and logo styles subtly changed. Watch for odd fonts in Omega’s name or reference numbers. The overall finish should still be high: genuine case engravings (e.g. on Seamaster 120 divers, Constellation observatory cases) are finely executed. Coarse engraving or smudged logos are signs of counterfeits.

Documentation: By the 1980s, Omega provided certificates, boxes, and booklets. Fake documentation is common, so verify the text and serial numbers against the watch. (For example, some early quartz certificates list a reference or battery code; check those details against Omega’s records).

Summary

Counterfeit watches have become increasingly sophisticated, and at the high end of the market, vintage Omegas are a likely target. Completing a structured checklist, such as the one above, reduces the risk of acquiring a costly counterfeit. Protect your investment and collection by verifying period-correct markings, matching components, and authenticating serials and movements. Make sure your vintage Omega is not only a watch you can enjoy wearing, but also a solid investment.