“Anyone heard of Garrard’s?” That was a question that was asked at a recent Set Back in Time session. The answer was “of course”. Garrard’s is a very distinguished retailer of luxury jewellery, which also includes a range of high-quality watches. In this instance, the watch in question was a Garrard 9ct gold wristwatch dating from 1979. The watch had sold, but we enjoyed doing some research about the famous brand and the ETA movement in the watch. Below is what we uncovered.
A brief history of Garrards
Garrards was founded in 1735 by George Wickes (1698 –1761). Garrards designed, manufactured and retailed luxury jewellery, silver and watches. Robert Garrard (1758 -1818) joined the business in 1782, initially in accounts, and became a partner in 1792. In 1802, Garrard assumed sole control and officially changed the firm’s name to Robert Garrard. In 1818, Robert Garrard Senior died and his three eldest sons, Robert Junior, James, and Sebastian, took over the business. They began trading collectively as R. J. & S. Garrard. The house quickly cemented its reputation for historical importance when, in 1852, the celebrated Koh-i-Noor diamond was recut on its premises. The firm officially simplified and changed its name to Garrard & Co Ltd. in 1909.
In 1843, during the reign of Queen Victoria, Garrard earned the title of Crown Jeweller of the United Kingdom. For 164 years, until 2007, the house actively managed and maintained the priceless British Crown Jewels. The company still actively trades, operating its central headquarters in London’s exclusive Mayfair district. Additionally, Garrard operates boutiques in various locations across the world. Clients can find the firm’s collections not only in Harrods, London, but also in international stores in Geneva, Lebanon, Qatar, Dubai, Moscow, and Hong Kong (Garrard and Co. at Graces Guide).
ETA 2824
The watch has a 25-jewel automatic movement, an ETA 2824, which features the retailer’s name. The ETA 2824 movement was a groundbreaking invention that left a lasting impact on the watchmaking industry. It is perhaps one of the most well-known and most recognised movements in the watch industry. Introduced in 1971, the ETA 2824 quickly set the standard with its efficient mass production and reliable performance.
It was in production from 1971 to 1979. The 2834 calibre is an automatic movement that features a sweep second hand and a quickset calendar. It also includes a hacking feature, where the seconds hand can be stopped for accurate time setting. The 2824 features 25 jewels, a 40-hour power reserve, Incabloc shock protection and a frequency of 28,800 vph (Ranfft DB).
Case and dial
The watch measures 33mm in diameter, excluding the winding crown and the lugs. The case is 9 carat gold and there are hallmarks inside the case back for London 1979 (What is a hallmark? at the London Assay Office). The case back has a few surface scratches, not too deep. The acrylic lens is in good condition. The signed dial retains its original finish, though light, age-related flecks appear on its surface. The dial features the original hands, seconds sweep and a quickset date display.
Summary
Despite the signed movement and dial, Garrard’s are not and never have been “watchmakers”. They are retailers with a very long and distinguished history. In reality, if you were buying this watch, you are purchasing the rock-solid ETA 2824 movement. During the firm’s long and illustrious history, Garrard has been renowned for their sale of luxury goods, and this classic gentlemen’s dress watch is no exception.
Related content
Garrard website.
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