Identifying a vintage Tissot watch

Last Updated on September 6, 2025 by Jason

Tissot is a much under-estimated brand, which is a shame considering it has successfully bridged the gap between luxury and affordability in the Swiss watch industry. I have a lot of respect for the brand, and I have owned a few Tissot watches over the years. They have served me well. If you are looking to start collecting vintage watches, the Tissot brand is an ideal place to start. Making sure you have a genuine Tissot is important before you make that first purchase. Identifying a vintage Tissot watch and determining its age is a relatively easy task requiring few tools and a little bit of knowledge. In this guide, you’ll learn to spot key hallmarks, read serial numbers and match parts to ensure your vintage Tissot is genuine and original.

The Tissot logo

First, grab a jeweller’s loupe or a strong magnifying glass. Hold it close to the top of the dial and look for the Tissot name. Pre-1960 pieces often sport a slanted script, while 1960s models use bold, upright lettering, sometimes crowned by a neat “T”. This subtle change in font style can tell you which decade your watch was produced.

Tissot “T” logo.

Automatic or manual?

Next, look at the bottom of the dial. If it reads “automatic”, the watch is self-winding. If it doesn’t say “automatic”, the watch is manual and will need to be wound daily. Many Tissot watches from the 1950s to 1970s will also state “17 Jewels” or a similar jewel count. Typically, the jewel count is an indicator of quality. A good quality vintage watch features a minimum of 15 jewels.

Opening the case

To peer inside, choose the right tool. If your Tissot has a snap-back case, slip a case blade under its rim and gently pry it open. For screw-down backs, press a sticky ball of duct tape or a watchmaker’s sticky ball onto the back plate and turn anticlockwise. Never force stubborn cases. If it won’t move, seek a watchmaker’s help to avoid scratches or dents.

With the case open, inspect the inside of the back plate through your loupe. You should spot “Tissot” above “Swiss Made”. Compare the font with that on the dial to ensure they match. Also look for metal markings like “999” for silver or “9K” up to “18K” for gold. In the case of silver or gold, the Swiss or British hallmarks will provide specific details and potentially dates. Swiss hallmarks often feature a bear’s head for silver, while British ones use a leopard’s head. In some instances, the name of an independent case maker, instead of Tissot, may be engraved (What is a hallmark? at the London Assay Office).

Examine the movement

Using a jeweller’s loupe or a magnifying glass, examine the movement. The Tissot name should be engraved on the bridge, which is a flat plate of metal covering part of the movement. Near the name is a serial number. For example, 2652301 dates the Tissot watch to 1952. A Tissot serial number decoder can be found at: Tissot serial number decoder and date finder.

Matching parts for authenticity

Always cross-check the logo on the dial, the engraving inside the case back and the movement engraving. Consistent branding across all parts shows your watch remains in its original condition. If numbers on the movement and case back line up, you’ve got a single, unaltered watch rather than a mismatched assembly.

Avoiding common confusions

Don’t confuse vintage Tissot timepieces with Mathey-Tissot watches, a completely separate Swiss brand. Also note that Tissot merged with Omega in 1930, forming SSIH (Société Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère). This resulted in some watches being distributed with dual branding, “Omega Watch Co. Tissot” during the 1930s and 1940s (SSIH at The Swatch Group). However, the movement was consistently branded “Tissot”.

Further variations

For a deeper check, look at the crown and clasp. Vintage crowns often bear a tiny “T” logo, while clasps on metal bracelets may have matching hallmarks. Even the crystal shape and bevel can hint at era-specific styles. Some dials feature textured patterns, subsidiary seconds dials or calendar windows. These variations can narrow down production years. For instance, a date window appearing at three o’clock became popular in the 1960s.

Summary

By checking the dial, case back, movement and hallmarks, you piece together your Tissot’s history. Matching logos and serial numbers confirms authenticity. With a little patience and these simple steps, you can be confident in identifying a genuine vintage Tissot every time. There is a huge range of vintage Tissot models worth considering. Take your time and pick one that is right for you. Hopefully, you will get as much enjoyment from the Tissot brand as I have over the years.